Discover the ancient art of matcha in Manhattan’s latest Japanese teahouse.
The experience begins with the calming aroma of incense at Sorate’s new location in the Flatiron District.
A tea master leads the preparation and serving of the tea, allowing guests to partake in a quiet “meditative ritual of sights and sounds,” as described by founder Sylvia Mera.
“I want to hear the water boiling and the whisk mixing matcha with hot water in a ceramic bowl,” she remarked.
Guests will then have a chance to savor their drinks, engage in conversation, and ask any questions that come to mind.
Mera opened her shop amid a global matcha shortage and U.S. tariffs on Japanese imports, aiming to offer a tranquil escape in the bustling city.
“Every movement and moment in preparing a cup of matcha holds significance,” she explained.
Sorate emerged from Mera’s online matcha subscription service that she launched in 2020.
In 2023, Nicola Zanatta joined as a partner after a lengthy career at Mate Hennessy and helped establish their first physical store in Soho at 103 Sullivan Street.
The Flatiron shop spans 600 square feet, featuring dim walls and sophisticated wood accents.
Attending a tea ceremony costs $120, while tea tastings with snacks are priced at $60 in Flatiron and $90 in Soho.
“A tea ceremony embodies harmony, respect, purity, and tranquility,” explained tea master Keiko Kitazawa, outlining key principles known in Japanese as “wa,” “respect,” “kiyo,” and “jaku.”
Kitazawa, dressed in a vibrant kimono, noted that while life can be hectic, the tea ceremony offers a moment of relaxation.
Alongside tea, guests can enjoy traditional wagashi, which are delicate Japanese sweets. Seasonal flavors, including chestnut and pumpkin, are crafted with bean paste to balance the matcha’s bitterness.
Matcha, a finely ground green tea, is whisked with hot water to create a smooth foam, served either hot or iced.
The shop can add milk upon request, but Mera emphasizes that the drink is best enjoyed in its purest form—a view influenced by her background in fashion advertising and marketing.
Currently, Japan supplies over half of the world’s matcha, with retail sales dramatically increasing—up by 86% over the last three years, according to NIQ.
This year’s harvests in Japan faced challenges due to unpredictable weather. Coupled with rising demand and increasing tourist numbers, the price of ceremonial matcha has gone up.
Moreover, imports from the U.S. to Japan are subjected to a 15% tariff.
So, Sorate’s homemade matcha saw its price rise from $29 to $40 for 40 grams last year, and the premium variety from $62 to $110.
Reports indicate that shoppers in Japan are now limited to one package each.
Even under ideal conditions, matcha cultivation is quite delicate.
“High-quality matcha is hand-picked only during specific seasons,” Kitazawa shared. “There’s a narrow time frame for picking the leaves and processing the matcha. Preparing just 30 grams takes an hour, and each serving generally requires 2 to 3 grams.”
She added that ceremonial matcha is sold in small quantities based on the connection between the tea house and the ceremony master.
To keep up with demand, Sorate aims to widen its network and establish new partnerships with Japanese farms, according to Mera.
Yet, despite the challenges, she successfully opened the Flatiron store last month, reporting that customers are still willing to pay the rising prices.
“They get that this is a broader issue. Some may have canceled subscriptions, but it’s not a widespread trend,” she noted.
There’s something special about it all… Meanwhile, City Harvest’s upcoming fall tasting event, “City Harvest Presents BID 2025: Fire & Ice,” will occur this Tuesday as New York faces cuts in federal aid for programs supporting the needy.
This event, hosted at Manhattan’s Glass House, will unite renowned chefs and restaurateurs to back City Harvest’s mission to rescue food that would otherwise go to waste. The organization delivers free food to many New Yorkers in need.
Guests can sample an array of drinks and snacks from more than 50 of the city’s premier chefs and mixologists, including culinary figures like Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin and Tom Colicchio from Craft.
Citing the urgency of the situation, City Harvest CEO Jilly Stevens stated, “Now more than ever, it’s vital for New Yorkers to rally together and support those in need.” She highlighted that attendance at soup kitchens and food pantries is reaching record levels, and potential government shutdowns could disrupt essential SNAP benefits soon.
Last year’s City Harvest events reportedly helped provide meals for around 4 million New Yorkers, according to the nonprofit organization.
