Five decades ago, when French chef Guy Raoult and his brother, journalist Serge, opened a bistro in Manhattan’s SoHo, their challenges extended beyond just staying afloat financially. Their heirs recently revealed that the mafia was also a concern, reportedly soliciting protection money from them.
Looking back, it was a very different time. Streets were mostly empty and many buildings stood vacant. Karim Raoul, Serge’s son, shared this week with Sidedish:
Enforcers from organized crime frequently visited Raul’s, the French restaurant owned by the brothers, demanding payments.
Karim recounted that when they resisted, vandalism often followed, with gangs targeting the establishments. Fortunately, he recalled, “only the windows were hurt,” and diners continued enjoying their meals inside.
After some of these incidents, Serge had an inventive idea that proved effective. He suggested staging fake TV broadcasts to deter the mob.
To their surprise, this strategy worked brilliantly, and the threats for attacks ceased, according to the restaurant’s owners.
This week, Raoul’s marked 50 years in Soho by reflecting on its history. While the area has transformed into an expansive shopping district, the beloved bistro has largely retained its character over the decades, contributing to its appeal.
“It’s never been a trendy spot. Always under the radar, never the hottest place around,” Karim told Sidedish. “It’s all about consistency, not striving to be the best in New York.”
Back in 1975, opening uptown wasn’t a viable option for the Raoult brothers; the high real estate prices made it impossible.
Instead, they carved out their niche on Prince Street, near Sullivan. It turned out to be a much more vibrant scene.
Serge’s connections from French television made it natural to bring artists that they were featuring to Raoul’s, as Karim explained.
One time, the journalists even helped against the mob. They set up a mock TV shoot outside, bright lights illuminating Raul’s broken window, making it hard for the mafia to deny their presence. Clearly, they weren’t fond of being in the limelight, and the threats diminished.
In its early days, Andy Warhol was among the first patrons, followed by art dealers like Mary Boone and later, various models and actors. Guy had previously worked in haute cuisine uptown, but the offerings at Raul’s were more laid-back.
Notably, Top Chef Thomas Keller was the chef there for a period in the early ’80s.
Throughout the years, creative figures such as Keith Haring, Jean-Michel Basquiat, Jeff Koons, and Richard Avedon gathered at Raul’s. Celebrities like Johnny Depp, Kate Moss, Quentin Tarantino, Julia Roberts, Al Pacino, and Robert De Niro also became regulars. Even cast members from “Saturday Night Live” celebrated there, from Lorne Michaels to the late John Belushi.
This week’s gala was attended by Jennifer Lawrence and her husband, Cooke Maroney, with Chloë Sevigny and Lauren Santo Domingo hosting.
Despite the neighborhood’s many changes, Raoul’s has remained a staple, staying true to its origins as an Italian restaurant from decades ago, as Karim noted.
Part of the restaurant’s charm comes from its distinctive features like the small spiral staircase and a tarot card reader on the second floor, in addition to its renowned dishes. The restaurant occupies a century-old row house that has previously housed an Italian eatery and a Portuguese dance hall, where numerous customers have dined amidst vintage leather booths and a bar from the 1930s.
The venue has also welcomed drag queens over the years, fostering a lively atmosphere with a staff of artistic bartenders, busboys, and servers. Manager Eddie Hudson is a veteran, having worked there for 47 years.
“What makes this place different from others is the decision to keep the original layout intact,” Karim reflected. “It has always been this space since day one.”
The menu, he mentioned, has come full circle. Initially, the restaurant focused on classic French cuisine like beef bourguignon.
“In the ’90s, we lightened the menu up and explored new American cuisine with fewer French influences,” Karim explained.
“Now, it’s returning to its roots, with rabbit and sweetbreads making a comeback, but with a fresher approach.”
The owners attribute the restaurant’s enduring popularity to the vibrant individuals who work there, especially the staff.
“There always was a certain level of freedom at Raoul’s. People could express themselves through their art and perform, creating a sense of entertainment beyond just dining,” Karim said.
