Rocco DiSpirito has made a return to a New York restaurant after six years, and it feels significant.
Bar Rocco, located on the second floor of the Kimpton Era Hotel at 32 W. 48th St., serves American-Italian cuisine. DiSpirito, known for his remarkable skills, first garnered attention in the city with Union Pacific in the late ’90s. The restaurant prides itself on using fresh ingredients, stepping away from the usual red sauce fare.
His last position in NYC was at the Standard Grill, where he worked for two years until the pandemic changed everything in 2020. Since then, he has published 15 books and appeared on numerous television shows around the globe. However, his culinary presence has been quite limited, aside from a brief pop-up in Southampton last summer.
There’s a distinction to be made between just being a “celebrity chef” and being a true chef. DiSpirito, who participated in “Dancing with the Stars,” exemplifies the latter. He’s hands-on in the kitchen daily, and you can really see the passion in his work.
“New York is where I started and learned what people want to eat,” he shared. “Bar Rocco is meant to feel personal yet familiar—a place you can always return to.”
The restaurant features a seating capacity of 108 and is part of four venues under the Apicii group within the hotel. The developer put a lot of thought—and money—into the space, which showcases beautiful mosaic floors and wood paneling. There are tall windows offering views toward Rockefeller Center, but the surrounding skyline isn’t particularly breathtaking.
Crowd dynamics fluctuate based on the season and hotel occupancy. You might find a mix of food enthusiasts, loyal DiSpirito fans, and curious tourists enjoying a comforting menu of Italian-American dishes that distinguish it from Midtown’s more eclectic offerings.
Those who remember DiSpirito’s earlier misstep with his 2009 TV show, The Restaurant, might be surprised. I referred to that place as a “burlesque” of sorts.
At Bar Rocco, “Mama’s Meatballs” ($20), inspired by his late mother’s recipe, are a delightful treat. They combine beef, pork, and veal, blended to a soft consistency and combined with a spicy tomato sauce that really stands out. Honestly, among all the meatballs in the city, these might be the best.
Even simple dishes are executed with great care. The Caesar salad ($19) uses fresh gem lettuce, which is definitely more appealing than average romaine, perfectly paired with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano and whole anchovies.
The chicory agro dolce sautéed salmon ($35) was cooked to a lovely medium-rare, crispy skin and all. But the real stars of the menu? The pasta, crafted with real love by DiSpirito.
Paccheri ($29), wide tubular pasta made with semolina and basil pesto, is accompanied by six Argentinian red shrimp that are sweet and tender. According to DiSpirito, their rich flavor comes from the fat content needed to thrive in the cold waters off Argentina’s coast.
For a comforting dish, the “Sunday Gravy” Lasagna ($32) layers fresh pasta, three cheeses, crumbled meatballs, and Italian sausage, making for a hearty experience.
Burgers often don’t get much attention in Italian restaurants, so Rocco’s Big Italian ($28) was a welcome surprise. Made from a blend of juicy aged Wagyu beef by Pat LaFrieda, it is topped with provolone and served on a sturdy brioche bun, showcasing a delightful mix of textures and flavors.
Desserts like tiramisu and layered sundaes round out the offerings, if you have the budget for them.
The lingering question is, considering his unpredictable career, how long will Bar Rocco remain Rocco DiSpirito’s place?
He mentioned, “I’ve always been coming here for worship since it opened.” Here’s hoping he sticks around for a while longer.
