IAbout 100 miles from Tonga, in the middle of the Pacific Ocean, the winds began to pick up when sailing captain Ivanancy Vunikura was helping command the Uto Ni Yalo, a ship that had set sail from Fiji a few days earlier.
“The weather changed completely, the waves were up to four metres and the wind speed increased to 25-30 knots. It was not easy to sail against the wind,” Bunnikula said.
After a seven-day voyage, the ship arrived in Tonga’s capital, Nuku’alofa, on Sunday, in time for the Pacific Islands Forum Leaders’ Summit. The Uto Ni Yalo blends various Pacific Island traditions with modern boat design, and the voyage was also symbolic of the regional unity gathering in Tonga. The group hopes to meet leaders at the summit and will also launch a project to share traditional boat-sailing skills and knowledge with Tongan communities.
Vunikura is one of the ship’s two sailors, the first Fijian woman to hold that position. Working alongside the captain, the sailors are skilled in navigation, understand the winds and currents and know how to steer the ship using the sails.
“We need more female sailors.Female crew members “Just recently there was a ship that sailed from New Zealand to Tonga. It’s beautiful to see and sailing can be tough but I think women need to be encouraged to get involved,” she says.
The crew of the Uto affectionately call her “Mama Uto”, and Bunnikula found it rewarding despite being “one of the most difficult voyages we’ve ever been on”.
“It was an emotional experience as I was taking on a responsibility that our ancestors once held. They navigated by the stars, the moon and traditional knowledge. But it was still a great honour,” she said.
Despite having 12 years of sailing experience, Bunikula had to win the trust of her colleagues – the role of sailor in Fiji is typically held by men, and the 43-year-old had to prove himself.
“There were still some guys who doubted my abilities… but I’m really glad they now know we can do it.”
The crew who traveled under her tutelage from Fiji to Tonga were impressed with her performance.
“She was an inspiration – her attitude, her antics, the way she kept watch – it was an honour to be with her on her first international voyage on Uto Ni Yalo,” said crew member Ian Shute.
Vunicula loves to dance and will perform a dance or two to entertain everyone, Chute said.
“Even in the wind, she still finds time to do her hula,” he added.
A practical navigator, she never dreamed she’d one day become a sailor. With no formal training, she was introduced to the Uto by a friend. After a few voyages, she got over her seasickness, but soon found herself not wanting to be away from the sea for too long.
“I love the ocean. I know it can be scary, but I just love the calming feeling of being in the ocean,” she says.
The crew is currently based on the Tongan island of Vava’u, where they will teach people how to navigate, build canoes, and travel sustainably between islands before departing for their return journey to Fiji in late September.
Vunicula believes in the importance of preserving Indigenous knowledge about navigation and seafaring, and would like to see women continue to play a role in this field.
“That’s why I’m here – to impart knowledge and teach young women sailors to go to sea. The sea is a beautiful place.”
