TThere's nothing I like more than a fashion documentary where I have to look online to see if at least one of the contributors is the real deal, and I was delighted to see that In Vogue: The '90s features two such contributors — three if you include legendary editor Anna Wintour herself, which would be hard to believe if she wasn't already part of the cultural landscape.
The first was American Vogue fashion director Karin Cerf de Dattzel, who was brought over from British Vogue in 1988 to style Wintour's first cover as part of a makeover for the transatlantic sister publication. What was American Vogue like before Anna arrived? “It was boring.Whhhhaaaaat?“Ahhh!” “Ahhh!” “Ahhh!” De Dattzel croaked, with more contempt than most of us could muster for the kitten killer before her. Then she remembered, “Uhhhh… I hated looking poor when I wasn't,” and grimaced in pain. The kitten killers would be more likely to be able to explain themselves to her.
The second is Hamish Bowles, who worked under Wintour at American Vogue from 1992. He's like a fantastically chic Lego figure and I'd like to follow him to the ends of the earth. When he remembers filth, it's in a pained whisper, a mind that can barely comprehend, let alone put into words, the horrors he saw.
The first episode focuses on the magazine and Wintour's arrival. “A Warhol-esque enigma,” says Vogue writer Jonathan Van Meter, the man behind the famous interview in which Linda Evangelista said supermodels “won't get out of bed for less than $10,000 a day.” “A chic, strong, boss woman,” says Kim Kardashian, but we're curious to know where she really fits in Wintour's psyche.
Everyone is in this three-part documentary. Wintour's henchman, his nemesis, and pretty much everyone in between: Grace Coddington, the glamorous Kate Moss, John Galliano, Elizabeth Hurley recounting that dress, Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Campbell, Evangelista herself, Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Miuccia Prada, Tom Ford (a kind of earnest vacuum that sucks interest out of every moment they're on screen), and many others. There's also a whole lot of commentary from former British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful. Together, they offer up almost nothing that even those who aren't particularly into Vogue haven't heard before. The '90s “changed everything,” we're told. Or, as they sometimes say, “changed everything.”
We hear about the Madonna cover all the time. That changed everything. Then the supermodel cover. That changed everything. Then Kate Moss came along and changed everything. Then Wintour gave a virtually unknown John Galliano a 12-page ad space and that changed everything. Maybe it changed everything for John Galliano.
In later episodes, Vogue is less of a focus, and the film focuses more on how it has adapted, incorporated and influenced the fashion world. But what is most fascinating is the first-hand, perhaps unintentional, observation of Wintour’s legendary bone-deep self-confidence (or as much of an observation as most people can survive). Not only does she flatly refuse to take off her sunglasses for an interview with the filmmakers, but she also readily acknowledges what she can and can’t do, and is willing to listen if others are equally confident in their ideas. Along with her ruthlessness towards others, there is a ruthlessness towards herself that makes her extraordinary.
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As a documentary about Vogue and the '90s, In Vogue: The '90s is average at best, but as an incredible collection of people and clothes, and a showcase of pure talent and beauty amid a swirl of catwalk and photoshoot footage, it's brilliant.
In Vogue: The '90s is currently streaming on Disney+.
