TThe change of seasons calls for more robust dishes. It comes with bags of golden-skinned onions, woody-stemmed herbs, and root vegetables. Fat carrots and mushrooms, beans and sticky rice, and a rich soup. This year, the seasons changed quite quickly. One minute it's all melons and tomatoes, the next I'm hunting around for a cast iron casserole.
For the past few weeks, in this kitchen, we've been talking about big dishes, recipes that take a little longer to prepare and are often brought to the table with a ladle. The season began with a tray of late tomatoes roasted with shallots until the skins were blackened all over and served with a rich tahini sauce. By the time the autumn rains were pouring down, mushrooms were stewed with thyme, onions and red wine, and broccoli was served with spicy sauce and sticky rice.
Next came a heartening dish of sausage and butter beans that made me feel better after a wet, wet day. As much as I enjoyed summer's laid-back attitude toward daily meals, I like this change of gear in the kitchen. Many dinners start with peeling onions and how much of the dish is left to work its magic in the oven. This seasonal cuisine has a depth that you don't find in summer.
Slow cooking comes with certain expectations. From the moment the onions and herbs begin to cook, the appetite is whetted, and dinner finally arrives on the table over an hour later. There's a finicky nature to these dishes, and while most of them will wait until you're ready, some, especially the bean casserole, taste even better if left overnight in the fridge.
It's no surprise that I enjoy cool nights. There are few more rewarding ways to spend an afternoon than spending an afternoon in the kitchen stuffed up to your ears with onion peels and bay leaves. On a damp, chilly night, I'd much rather roast something slowly in the oven than the hissing and spitting sound of the grill I've been grilling all summer. Autumn and winter cooking is slow-paced, with signature dishes and their core ingredients proving popular every time.
A jar of beans has fallen off a shelf in the pantry. The china casserole is dusted and there are bunches of carrots and thyme on the vegetable shelf. My shopping bags are full of shallots and mushrooms, lentils and beans, and bags of potatoes. Cooler days are finally here and I'm ready for them.
Broccoli and cauliflower with sticky rice
The salty spiciness of the fish sauce and the warmth of the chili pepper pair perfectly with both the broccoli and cauliflower. I think the flavorful dressing tastes better with sticky rice than steamed basmati. This is certainly the case in this case. If you're a vegetarian, you might want to try a vegan version of the “fish” sauce.
For 4 people
thai sticky rice 200g
lime juice 75ml (about 2 limes)
sugar A generous pinch
Tamari 1 tablespoon (or soy sauce)
fish sauce 1 tablespoon
chili sauce 2 teaspoons
eggplant Junior high school 1
olive oil 6 tablespoons
shallot 3rd grade
garlic 2 cloves
ginger 40g
cauliflower 250g
soft stem broccoli 250g
mint leaf small handful
coriander leaves big handful
Soak the rice in water for about 3 hours. (If you are using a rice cooker, you do not need to perform this step.)
In a small bowl, stir the lime juice until the sugar is dissolved, then add the tamari (or soy sauce), fish sauce, and chili sauce. Taste and if you like your dressing a little sweeter, add a little more sugar and stir. It should be quite sour and punchy.
Place the steamer basket over a pot of boiling water. Place a piece of muslin in a steamer with enough overhang to wrap around the rice. Drain the rice, place it in a muslin-lined steamer basket, fold the muslin over and cover with a lid.
Steam for 25 minutes and then check to see if the rice is ready. It should be quite soft.
Cut the eggplant into small cubes. Heat olive oil in a shallow saucepan over medium heat and simmer until eggplant is tender, 7 to 8 minutes. Finely chop the shallots.
Peel the garlic and finely slice it. Peel the ginger and grate it. Stir the shallots and garlic into the eggplant and cook for 5 minutes, then stir in the ginger and continue cooking for a few minutes until the shallots soften.
Cut the cauliflower into large florets, then cut each floret into halves or quarters depending on size. Now do the same thing with the broccoli. Add the cauliflower and broccoli to the shallots, garlic, and ginger. Continue cooking, covered, until the cauliflower is tender, 7 to 10 minutes, then add the dressing, stir, and simmer for 2 minutes.
Tear the mint and coriander leaves and mix them into the eggplant and vegetables. Enjoy with rice.
Tomato stew in tahini sauce
This dish is perfect for a mixed bag of tomatoes. I like to cook it until the skin turns black in places and adds a smoky flavor to the dish. A combination of tart cherry tomatoes and large, sweet cherry tomatoes is ideal.
For 3 people
big banana shallot 250g
olive oil 4 tablespoons
time 6 bushy twigs
Sumac 2 tablespoons
dried oregano 1 tablespoon
Sesame 2 teaspoons
tomato 750g
for tahini sauce
garlic 2 small cloves
lemon 1/2
tahini 90g
cold water 100ml
Preheat the oven to 180°C fan/gas mark 6.
Peel the shallot and cut it in half lengthwise. Separate the layers and place in a mixing bowl. Pour in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Peel the thyme leaves from the stems and you will need about 2 teaspoons. Then mix it with sumac and dried oregano. Stir the herb and spice mixture into the shallots. Add sesame seeds, mix and pour into roasting mold.
Roast the shallots for 15 minutes. Cut the tomatoes in half, place between the shallots and return to the oven for 45 minutes. Once the tomatoes are soft, mix the juice with the shallots and return to the oven.
To make tahini sauce, peel the garlic cloves and mash them into a paste with a pinch of salt. Add the lemon juice and mix, then add the tahini and mix. Continue stirring as you add water (I use a small whisk) until you have a smooth, pourable paste.
Remove the tomatoes and shallots from the oven and place in a shallow bowl with the juices from the roasting tin. Drizzle some of the tahini sauce over the tomatoes.
red lentil soup
A rich and aromatic soup with a top note of lime.
For 4 people
vegetable oil 2 tablespoons
onion 1 large coarsely chopped
garlic 3 cloves (peeled and crushed)
mustard seeds 2 teaspoons
aleppo pepper 1 teaspoon
turmeric 2 teaspoons
cumin seeds 1 teaspoon
ginger 50g piece
split red lentils 225g
chopped tomatoes 400g can x 1
garam masala 2 teaspoons
lime 1
coriander leaves A large handful, chopped
mint 10 leaves (chopped)
Heat the oil in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed saucepan and sauté the onions over medium heat until softened, about 15 minutes. Add garlic, mustard seeds, Aleppo pepper, turmeric, and cumin seeds and mix. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally.
Peel the ginger, grate it into a paste and mix it with the lentils and chopped tomatoes. Pour in 1 liter of water and simmer until the lentils are soft enough to fall apart, about 25 minutes. Stir in the garam masala and salt, then squeeze in a little lime juice to taste. Start with half a lime and add more lime if you like. Add coriander and mint. Check the seasoning and serve in a deep bowl.
Mushroom bourguignon, mashed carrots
There is no shortage of types of mushrooms, but all but the most delicate and fragile ones are suitable here. However, the richness of the juice, with notes of tomato, rosemary, and red wine, means that fleshier varieties such as chestnuts and wild mushrooms are best. I like the firm meat of king kingfish, which is similar to porcini and cheaper than porcini. Little shimeji mushrooms, which like little fairy mushrooms, are the perfect finishing touch. You can also serve this with some kind of mash, carrots or potatoes. It seems too early for parsnips, but my choice is carrots.
Serves 4-6 people
onion 2
olive oil 3 tablespoons
garlic 3 cloves
carrot 2nd grade
shallot 6 small pieces
time 6 twigs
rosemary 2 twigs
bay leaves 3
coriander seeds 2 teaspoons
button mushroom 250g
brown chestnut mushroom 200g
tomato pureeYeah 3 heaped teaspoons
tomato large 2
ordinary flour 2 tablespoons
red wine 500ml
vegetable stock 500ml
Eringi mushroom 250g
balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons
small mushrooms etc. Shimeji mushrooms 50g
Peel the onion and coarsely chop it. Heat the olive oil in a deep, dark casserole over medium heat, then add the onions and stir. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until tender and pale golden.
While the onions are cooking, peel and finely slice the garlic, mix with the onions, rub the carrots and cut into small pieces. Mix these together and add the peeled shallots (whole if they're very small, or halved if they're a little larger).
Remove the thyme and rosemary leaves, chop finely and add to the onions along with the bay leaves and coriander seeds. Stir the button mushrooms with the onions and add the brown chestnut mushrooms, cut in half. Continue cooking until the mushrooms turn slightly black.
Stir in the tomato puree and continue cooking, adding coarsely chopped tomatoes. Cook for about 10 minutes, then sprinkle with flour and mix well. Pour in the red wine and let it bubble for a few minutes, then pour in the vegetable stock and bring to a boil. Season with salt and black pepper, reduce the heat and let the stew simmer for about 25 minutes.
Thinly slice the king mushrooms and add to the pot along with the balsamic vinegar and small mushrooms. Reduce heat and simmer for another 10 minutes.
Serve with mashed carrots.
Stew of beans, sherry and sausage
As the sun sets and evening approaches, I'm drawn to the comfort of bean casserole. The sausage that floats your boat can be anything from plump breakfast sausage to chorizo, fennel-freckled Italian chubster, or a vegan alternative. This is one of those recipes that reheats well.
For 4 people
herb, pepper sausage 500g
olive oil 3 tablespoons
onion 2nd year
garlic 3 cloves
chili flakes 1 teaspoon
rosemary leaves 2 tsp chopped
bay leaves 2
dry sherry 150ml
butter, borlotti or cannellini beans 2 400g cans (or 700g jars)
chicken or vegetable stock 500ml
balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons
cabbage 200g
Cut the sausage into short lengths (about 3cm is fine), heat the oil in a shallow pan, add the sausage and fry until golden brown. Turn it occasionally to make sure it's evenly colored and sear the cut sides well, then remove from the pan and set aside.
While the sausage is cooking, peel and coarsely chop the onion. Remove the sausages and let them rest, then stir the onions into the hot oil and sausage fat and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until soft and pale golden, about 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, peel and thinly slice the garlic and mix it into the onion along with the chili flakes, rosemary, and bay leaf. Pour in the dry sherry and let it bubble for a few minutes, then drain the beans and tip them in. Return the sausage and the juice that came out from it, pour in the stock, bring to a boil and immediately reduce the heat. Heat, season with salt and pepper and simmer, partially covered, for 30 minutes.
Add balsamic vinegar and stir. Wash the cabbage leaves, cut the stems into 3cm lengths, and cut the leaves into wide strips. Add to stew and cook for 4-5 minutes, checking for seasoning. Serve with a spoon and bowl for juice.
thousand feasts By Nigel Slater (HarperCollins, £20) on sale now
