Some journalists brave the warm spring sun, while others seek solace in the shadows of the Vatican. Regardless of their approach, they share one goal: to spot the red-capped cardinals leaving the synod hall and gather hints about Pope Francis’ future.
The individual tasked with selecting the next Pope is currently relishing their status in Rome, preparing for the upcoming conclave.
Marina Garcia Diguez, a new journalist in this scene, is navigating the daily hustle. She’s figuring out the Cardinals’ strategies to evade reporters. “Each one has their own tactics,” Diguez mentioned, working for Spanish media stations Cadena Ser and Mediaset España. “When you’re waiting for a car with tinted windows, they can make a quick escape. Ditch the red hat, walk away, and blend in with the tourists in St. Peter’s Square before vanishing down Della Conciliazione.” At that point, she suggested, you’d have a good shot at catching something.
Diguez managed to snag some quotes from prominent figures this week, including Italian Cardinal Fernando Fironi, who has become a favorite of the Pope. However, the Guardian had less luck following him. “I don’t speak English, which is quite fortunate,” remarked another cardinal from Argentina.
This week, around 180 Cardinals from across the globe are gathering in the Synod Hall, getting acquainted and discussing their visions for the Church, all with the aim of identifying a clear candidate for Pope. Out of this group, 133 can cast votes, as two have been sidelined for health concerns.
A surprising eight out of ten voters were appointed by Francis, with 20 cardinals being recent additions. He made a point of selecting candidates from regions that had been previously overlooked, like Myanmar, Haiti, and Rwanda. It’s interesting, really; I didn’t see many of them until just last week.
During the conclave, the cardinals will be housed at Casa Santa Marta, the modest guesthouse where Pope Francis once lived, and loose from there only to vote in the Sistine Chapel.
Before the conclave kicks off, the Cardinals will take vows of silence, which they’ll uphold once the election begins.
But, until the isolation sets in, the real action unfolds in the bars and restaurants surrounding the Vatican. Some of the more mischievous cardinals exploit the media, leaking bits of information and hinting at frontrunners.
Al Passetto Di Borgo, a long-favored eatery among Roman clergy, has a rich history. There’s even a newspaper clipping on the wall claiming it played a role in securing Joseph Ratzinger’s election in the 2005 conclave.
During a meal this week, American Cardinal Cean Patrick O’Malley, who leads efforts to protect minors from abuse, was seen there. Although he’s too old to vote at 80, some observers still mention his potential candidacy. Another diner was Donald Wale, who stepped down as Washington’s archbishop in 2018 amid sexual abuse crises.
He shared a phone photo with restaurant owner Antonello Fulvimari, reminiscing, “He’s been here since 1969.”
Fulvimari could only glean from his notable clients this week that they want the conclave to happen “as soon as possible.” “Everyone wants to go home,” he added, “but this is where the crucial decisions unfold.”
Another popular spot is Marcantonio, though its cardinals supposedly frightened Peter away from journalists, according to a waiter.
Cardinals aiming to spread rumors often target experienced Vatican journalists in the Italian press, attempting to undermine key candidates by asserting health concerns, such as with Vatican Secretary of State Pietro Parolin. The Filipino reformist and favorite, Lewis Antonio Tagle, is also under scrutiny from conservative cardinals. A recent video even surfaced online, showing him singing John Lennon’s “Imagine.”
Caffe Dei Papi, a lesser-known coffee bar away from the hustle, is said to be another gathering point. The bar manager, Ilda, noted, “But you never know when they might drop by; I just read about it in the newspaper.”
Naturally, the chatter in the bar revolves around whomever might be elected next. Ilda remarked, “I believe it should be someone who embraces everyone.”
Meanwhile, Vincenzo Al, a concierge nearby who has drifted from Catholicism, expressed indifference: “I’m just glad they cleaned up the streets. The only news around here is when the Pope passes away.”
