One Club Row: A Nostalgic Dining Experience

So, there’s a place called One Club Row. It might sound like something from a 90s youth magazine, but it’s actually a somewhat shabby spot above a Shoreditch pub, giving off an ambiance that could easily remind you of that era—think of Martini, Oyster, and Schnitzel vibes. If you were around back then, you’d get it. These days, the 90s feel a bit wild, chaotic even, if viewed against today’s more polished scenes. Restaurants of that time are now preaching zero-waste, trying to ditch the excesses of the past, like over-the-top liver dishes or alcohol-laden cocktails. Sure, there was puritanism then, but mindfulness? Not as much.

London venues like One Club Row, along with spots like Devonshire in Piccadilly and Primsol in Finsbury Park, offer a quirky, retro experience. You might find yourself surrounded by some vintage items and enjoying good drinks while tunes from Transvision Vamp or Shed Seven play in the background.

One Club Row’s lower-level bar, Knave, prides itself on being a “proper pub” where dogs are welcome to hang out. Its menu boasts the usual pub fare—think bags of crisps, Scotch eggs, and Sunday roasts. On the side streets behind, One Club Row has its own distinct vibe with graffiti and a party atmosphere setting in by 8 PM. The bar is unpretentiously nice, lined with options for house martinis and a casual, relaxed ambiance that doesn’t feel forced.

Now, if you, like me, remember the original 90s scene, you might be thinking it feels a bit dated, or questioning the menu’s readability by that time of night. It can almost feel like a blast from the past, where you wonder if you’ve stepped back into the retro period you once knew. It seems that the efforts of owners James Dye and Benji Leibowitz, along with chef Patrick Powell, contribute to this atmosphere—adequately laid-back yet engaging, thanks to the management steering things right.

Speaking of the menu, Powell is quite well-known in the culinary world and was previously involved with the Michelin-starred Allegra. Here, though, he offers a more heartfelt menu than just trendy dishes. You’ll find options like lobster croquettes, roasted scallops, and rich French onion soup on his menu.

We began our meal with lobster croquettes, which were substantial and crisp, alongside a cheesy, sweet-and-spicy pepper dish reminiscent of classic culinary styles. The classic steak tartare, served with toast and complemented by lively salad leaves, was impressive. Tuna crudo, artistically arranged with pickled celery and a flavorful blend of smoked eggplant with lemon, caught the eye and teased the palate.

For mains, the options were more traditional—a mix of fish cakes, pasta, and even a ribeye steak with chipotle mayo. There was also a burger, which wasn’t overly complicated. The grass-fed version might not be the flashiest burger in London, but it also doesn’t bring any complaints along with it. Though the accompanying sauce could have used a bit more flavor, the fries were enjoyable in their simple, steady presentation.

For dessert, we shared a Dutch baby topped with Chantilly cream and blueberries, alongside the option of smoked bacon. You might wonder why it’s called that—it’s a playful reference to something we locals might consider Yorkshire pudding.

While One Club Row may not deliver a groundbreaking culinary experience, some dishes might still need a bit of fine-tuning. Yet that really isn’t the focus here. It’s about good food and drinks, a welcoming atmosphere, and a bit of nostalgia—all combining to make the future seem a little brighter.

• One Club Row — 1 Club Row, London E1. Dinner only, Tuesday from 5:30 PM to 11 PM. Expect to spend around £50 per person for three courses, including drinks and service.