Move over, grapes—agave is taking the spotlight.
With California’s wine industry facing shrinking consumer interest amid a crowded market, grape farmers are beginning to pivot towards agave cultivation. This group of resilient succulents, known for producing syrups and spirits, offers hope for those looking to maintain their livelihoods.
Agave, the key ingredient behind beloved spirits like tequila and mezcal, boasts low water requirements and minimal labor costs, thriving in hot, arid climates. It’s already a staple in Mexico.
Farmers in California, including Joy Merrilees, who operates a vineyard with her husband, are adapting to these shifts. They launched a grape-based gin and soon considered agave as a promising new direction.
The choice to invest in agave was influenced by the crop’s adaptability to their volcanic soil and its lower water needs.
Now, they have half an acre of agave plants, some as young as just a few months old. They expect to offer their own product, High Chaparral Agave Spirit, in a couple of years.
“It’s vital for farmers to innovate to stay profitable,” Merrilees shared. Their vineyard spans 35 acres, yet diversifying seems crucial to survival.
They’re among approximately 100 agave growers in the state, according to a survey from the University of California, Davis. Around 1,000 acres are currently devoted to agave across 38 of California’s 58 counties, with Fresno County experiencing significant growth last year.
Despite having only seven recognized agave spirits producers in California, interest in expanding this sector is surging, particularly from grape growers eager to adapt to fluctuating market demands.
Ken Richter, who manages Brutocao Family Vineyards in Mendocino County, is contemplating a shift toward agave as well. The challenges tied to traditional winemaking have left him exploring new growth opportunities.
“I’ve been in this for 30 years, but things are tough,” Richter remarked. “So, I’m considering what else I could cultivate… Agave seems to have some momentum.”
He’s planning to research agave further and experiment with planting some on his property, though he’s concerned that the excitement around agave might suffer the same fate as the grape market.
“That’s a daunting thought for everyone,” Richter expressed. “It’s a pretty uncertain landscape.”
