It was around 7pm when the UMF Grindavík players wrapped up their training in the club’s indoor facility. There had been seismic activity in the area, but in this seaside town south of Iceland’s renowned Blue Lagoon, folks were quite accustomed to it by now. For the past few years, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions had become part of the landscape. Life went on, but on November 10, 2023, nature seemed poised to make a real statement. Just four hours after the soccer team’s practice, the situation escalated, leading to the evacuation of Grindavík. What was once a bustling community quickly turned into a ghost town.
Now, dreams of playing soccer in the hall are gone. A massive crack—up to 25 meters deep—has split the pitch in two. This crack is one of the most striking signs of the damage. The outdoor training field has also been wrecked. Yet, an incredible event is happening this Saturday. Football could pave the way for recovery that many had anticipated over the past year and a half. Grindavík will play at Stakkavíkurvöllur for the first time since the evacuation, hosting Fjölnir in a second-tier match that feels almost secondary to the occasion.
Haukur Guðberg Einarsson held on to the belief that Grindavík would rise again. Even when numerous eruptions ravaged the surrounding landscape and hindered rebuilding efforts, he remained committed. “This was my mission every day and night,” he insists. “I’ve battled against nature, but I never gave up. Never, never, never.”
Residents were finally allowed back into Grindavík a few weeks after the evacuation. “I had to prioritize my family first,” Einarsson explains. “Then, I turned my focus back to the football club. For about three weeks, I was commuting back and forth through harsh winter conditions. I had to save the club and find it a new home.”
While housed by Víkingur Reykjavík during the turmoil, Einarsson acknowledges their support. “They kept us afloat,” he recalls. “We were about to fall, and they helped us.” Apart from a few sporadic games, many local clubs also offered assistance. “Morale was pretty low,” he notes, reflecting on the hard truths about the town’s economy. The club lost about 40% of its sponsors, and many, including Einarsson, lost their jobs as businesses closed. At least now, he can discover more time for his passions. Grindavík needed to find its home once more at the picturesque Stakkavíkurvöllur.
“I spoke with many experts toensure the pitch was safe,” he says. “If it wasn’t 150% secure, we didn’t want to take any risks. We had to take one step forward, but then two steps back. Just when you thought you were making progress, another eruption would happen, forcing you to evacuate again.”
When lava threatened the town on April 1, Einarsson feared his efforts would be futile. “I thought I’d never see the pitch again,” he admits. Fortunately, the lava paused, and Stakkavíkurvöllur was cleared for use on Monday. Geological assessments confirmed that the renovated venue was safe, allowing for up to 1,500 fans to attend on Saturday. There’s a real sense of community gathering around the event, including concerts, children’s activities, and food booths.
“This is a significant moment for us in Grindavík,” Einarsson expressed. “Being told we could play was incredibly special, and it’s hard to articulate how much this means to me.”
Nevertheless, it doesn’t imply that Grindavík will immediately return to its former glory. The town has seen some return since late October, but only about 40 houses are currently inhabited. Many remain damaged beyond repair. This football event symbolizes the start of a hopeful revival. “There are people who can’t return,” he says. “Some aren’t sure or are still grappling with their loss. Rebuilding Grindavík will take years.”
The team has practiced at Stakkavíkurvöllur in recent weeks, and they garnered attention after a visit to a nearby pizzeria following a training session. They wanted to illustrate some semblance of normalcy outside the football field. Still, reminders of their surreal reality linger. The club’s main sponsor has constructed a 12-meter-high protective wall around the town to shield it from potential lava flows, which prominently features on the team’s jersey.
Boasting a legacy that includes former Manchester United and England winger Lee Sharp, Grindavík has aspirations of climbing back to Iceland’s highest league. Although the current squad, with many young recruits, likely won’t achieve great heights this season, they’re aiming for something more profound. The residents of Grindavík might still remember their traumatic past, but they’re also eyeing a brighter future.
“We’re moving forward, step by step,” Einarsson says. “That’s okay. With commitment and the community’s spirit, there’s a chance for Grindavík to thrive again.”
