After a remarkable 120 years, Barbetta, a beloved staple in the Theater District, served its final meal on Friday night.
“It had such a significant impact on everyone,” reflected Susannah Gardigian, who has been managing private events at Barbetta for nearly four decades.
“People are returning tonight to bid farewell, and many are in tears, expressing how much Barbetta meant to them,” Gardigian shared as she oversaw the coat check.
Located in the Astor family’s elegant townhouse on 46th Street, the restaurant drew in crowds eager to savor dishes like Pacific swordfish and a beef dish called Bue al Barolo.
Among those paying their respects was Bill Bradley, a Hall of Fame NBA player and former New Jersey state senator.
“It’s really sad to see Barbetta go,” he told reporters after his last meal there. “The ambiance, the incredible food, and the people—it all combined to create something truly special, thanks to Laura,” he added.
He was referring to Laura Maioglio, who helmed Barbetta with passion and meticulous care since 1962.
Maioglio passed away on January 17, aged 93, leading many to speculate that her decision to close the restaurant was intertwined with her passing.
“Laura was extraordinary and taught me so much,” Gardigian said about her mentor, who often took staff trips to Italy for culinary inspiration. “She had an eye for detail and strived to make the restaurant feel like home.”
Maioglio was part of the second generation of ownership at Barbetta, which was recognized as the city’s oldest restaurant operated by the same family and is well-known as Manhattan’s oldest Italian eatery.
“It’s a blessing to have managed a restaurant for so long,” said Sal Scognamillo, who owns Patsy’s Italian Restaurant a few blocks away. “Barbetta has always maintained the highest quality and integrity.”
She took over the establishment from her father, Sebastiano, who opened it when Italian cuisine was still a rarity in America.
Alice Uhle, who married her late husband at Barbetta’s lush gardens in 1996, returned for the final meal, carrying wedding photos. “I was shocked when I heard it was closing. We’re having swordfish tonight because we had it at our wedding,” she said.
Barbetta has seen famous figures like Enrico Caruso and Arturo Toscanini dine within its walls.
“Barbetta was pivotal in introducing Piedmontese cuisine to America,” commented Andrew Cott of Appetito Magazine. The restaurant was among the first to popularize truffles in the U.S.
“It’s always disheartening when such an institution closes, whether it’s local Italian or classic Italian-American, as they’re vital to our city’s cultural landscape,” Cott remarked.
Over the years, Barbetta became entwined with the glamour of New York. Icons like Jackie Kennedy, Andy Warhol, and John Lennon dined there, and the Rolling Stones were regular visitors, often inquiring about the owner’s mother.
“They once came in and asked how my mom was doing,” recalled Maioglio. “She had passed away shortly before that, and they brought flowers for her picture.”
Its prime location near Broadway made it a favored spot for theater-goers, even hosting opening night parties for productions like “Hamilton.” The restaurant’s stunning interiors have made appearances on screens, including films by Martin Scorsese and Woody Allen.
Even TV series like “Mad Men” and “Sex and the City” have highlighted Barbetta.
“Losing Barbetta is a huge blow for the city,” said longtime fan Geraldo Rivera, citing its lavish decor and warm atmosphere. “I can’t think of anyone who could fill Laura’s shoes. She was genuinely kind and gracious.”
The restaurant also hosted memorable events, from fashion shows to notable receptions; even Laura’s husband, Nobel Prize-winning scientist Günter Blobel, had his reception there.
Rivera reminisced about an evening when the Clintons visited Barbetta during the presidential campaign, where Laura introduced Hillary Clinton as if inviting guests into her home.
As guests enjoyed their final night, spontaneous applause erupted when Gardigian walked through the restaurant, catching her off guard.
Waiter Margarito “Mario” Morales, who began his journey in Barbetta’s kitchen 13 years ago, shared his favorite memories from the time Laura was present. “When I heard it was closing, I cried and rushed to be here tonight,” said Alan Leaf, a loyal patron, recalling his first visit nearly four decades ago.
Numerous brides who celebrated their weddings at Barbetta were also in attendance. “When I learned of the closure, I was in disbelief,” admitted Uhle, tying her memories to that special day.
Photographer Carla Murray expressed the sadness of losing such a long-standing establishment, which adds to the uniqueness of the neighborhood. “It diminishes the character a bit,” she observed, advocating for the support of small businesses.
As employees reflect on their futures, Gardigian noted, “I’m unsure of what’s next. Many guests ask, ‘Where will you go? We’ll follow!'”
