New York boasts a plethora of iconic landmarks recognized globally: the Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty, Rockefeller Center, and, of course, a slice of Junior’s cheesecake.
This week celebrates 75 years since one of Brooklyn’s most cherished eateries first opened its doors. Located at the bustling intersection of Flatbush and DeKalb streets, Junior’s has become a gathering place where New Yorkers from all walks of life can enjoy good food together.
“This is quintessential New York dining,” said Marty Markowitz, 80, a former borough president and devoted patron since he was a teenager. “If I were going on a second date, I’d definitely take them there.”
Junior’s has drawn in a diverse crowd. Former Mayor Rudy Giuliani once referred to it as “one of the flavors that makes this city what it is.” Not to mention, filmmaker Spike Lee, who shot a recent film on-site and celebrated a holiday there with Rev. Al Sharpton.
“I hear stories like, ‘My parents had their first date at Junior’s,’ or ‘I graduated high school there,'” reflected Alan Rosen, the third-generation owner whose grandfather Harry founded Junior’s in 1950. “Honestly, it’s an honor.”
Though the restaurant may have started as just another spot in a city filled with dining options, it was its New York-style cheesecake that truly differentiated it.
Crafted with full-fat cream cheese on a sponge cake crust, Junior’s uses around 4 million pounds of cream cheese annually. The signature dessert quickly gained popularity and became synonymous with the city, earning accolades from local critics who hailed it as “the best cheesecake in the physical world.”
It’s called cheesecake
For its first couple of decades, Junior’s maintained a loyal clientele, but when the Brooklyn Dodgers became regulars until their relocation in 1957, the restaurant really began to flourish.
Then in 1973, the Village Voice published glowing reviews that sparked city-wide buzz. “You’ll never get a better cheesecake than the one at Junior’s on Flatbush Avenue…This is the best cheesecake in New York,” said Ron Rosenblum at the time.
A few months later, in a blind taste test orchestrated by New York Magazine, Junior’s was unanimously deemed the best cheesecake in the Big Apple by a panel of six judges.
“Dining there evokes a sense of peace and nostalgia,” remarked Dan Pelosi, author of the comfort food cookbook Let’s Party. “What catches my attention is the sponge cake base. Most places go with graham crackers, but Junior’s has preserved this sponge cake approach from the beginning.”
For New York chef Jake Cohen, “It’s all about tradition and attention to detail.” He expressed to the Post that New York-style slices remain superior because they focus on executing a singular dish perfectly.
Never a boring moment
The recipe for Junior’s success has been straightforward, yet the journey hasn’t been without its hurdles.
Throughout the years, they faced significant challenges, from the neighborhood’s decline in the 1970s to a devastating fire in 1981 that prompted a community rallying cry of “Save the cheesecake!” Plus, the infamous 2021 cream cheese crisis nearly put them out of business. Yet, Junior’s has weathered it all.
With appearances in TV shows and movies from the 1990s to LL Cool J videos, Junior’s is recognized as a part of New York’s cultural fabric. The restaurant featured prominently in the Sex and the City movie, with staff serving customers even during filming.
Alan Rosen reminisces about pivotal moments, like being called in to help during the 1977 blackout at just eight years old. They stayed open on September 11, 2001, setting up tables outside to assist overwhelmed workers. Junior’s managed to adapt during the pandemic, offering takeout and continuing to ship cheesecakes globally.
Today, there are new challenges. Gentrification looms over the neighborhood, as significant developments are reshaping the landscape.
In 2013, Junior’s was faced with an offer of $45 million from a developer who wanted to tear down the building. Rosen found this an incredibly tough call, informing he even sought therapy through the process. Many loyal customers shared their fondness, which helped ease his worries.
“This has been my family’s life’s work,” Rosen reflected, expressing satisfaction with his ultimate choice. “As I said at my father’s funeral, his entire life was confined within these four walls.”
No matter what hurdles come next, Junior’s is determined to push through.
“We just have to keep grinding, moving forward,” Rosen stated. “We still have a love for this business.”
