If you can’t beat them, try eating them. This mantra has become a rallying cry for the New England seafood industry, particularly among fishermen trying to manage the growing population of green crab, known for being one of the world’s most invasive species.
While they don’t offer much meat, green crabs are remarkably destructive. They’ve disrupted the shellfish industry and local ecosystems due to their insatiable appetite.
“They’re omnivorous and consume almost anything, especially important commercial species like soft-shell clams,” said Adrian Papal, who manages the Habitat and Water Quality Program at the Massachusetts Coastal Zone Management Office.
Green crabs made their way to New England in the mid to late 1980s, hitching a ride from Europe and West Africa on cargo ships.
“These crabs have remarkable environmental tolerance,” Papal explained, noting that they can thrive anywhere from the intertidal zone to depths of around 100 feet. “They’ve got numerous survival strategies, which is why they’re so widespread and impactful.”
According to Story Reed, deputy director of the Massachusetts Marine Fisheries Division, managing the green crab issue is tough on the state’s shellfish industry.
“Five towns on the North Shore are actively engaged in eradication efforts, supported by state funding,” Reed stated. “And we’re hearing that areas in Cape Cod are starting to feel their effects as well, which has prompted interest in similar programs there.”
Jamie Bassett, a fisherman from Chatham, Massachusetts, has witnessed the problem firsthand. “We definitely have a green crab issue,” he mentioned.
The female green crab can produce up to 180,000 eggs, complicating eradication efforts further.
“Dealing with the green crab problem feels like a never-ending battle,” Bassett noted, acknowledging their rapid reproduction rate.
Finding a market for these crabs presents a significant challenge. “How many pounds do restaurants actually order from seafood wholesalers in Boston?” he pondered.
Sharon St. Ours, who’s been in the seafood business for four decades, is determined to change perceptions about green crabs.
“In the end, they’re actually quite tasty,” she said. After noticing the harm they caused to oyster populations, she thought, “We can tackle this issue.” She and her father began experimenting with the crabs.
St. Ours discovered that their soup made from green crab is sweeter than those made with traditional shellfish. “It has a delightful flavor, much sweeter than lobster,” she remarked.
In March, St. Ours & Company launched Crab Broth Powder at the Seafood Expo North America Trade Show, three years in the making, even earning a nod as a finalist in the Food Service category.
“I’m still not profitable, but interest is growing,” she admitted.
The project received some backing from DMF’s seafood marketing initiative. “It was fantastic to see them generate excitement and recognition at an international level,” Reed said, highlighting the creativity and culinary potential of using alternative species. “It’s wonderful that chefs and consumers are open to trying new options.”
