Researchers believe they have found a solution to makeup with dark skin tones that look grey or gray once painted.
In recent years, the market for beauty products designed for people with dark skin tones has been booming, with some brands currently offering a wide variety of shades to consumers.
Now, researchers say they have found a way to create red tones on dark skin makeup. Adding ultramarine blue reduces the grey or grey appearance that such products can create.
Gabriella Baki, an associate professor of pharmaceuticals at the University of Toledo, said some companies already use additives in their products, but their use has not spread.
“We hope that our research will provide new insights into why we should add it,” she said.
The team notes that gray complexion, which can arise from the makeup foundation of dark skin, usually leads to such products containing more black oxides.
“Ultramarine blue produces a different reddish and yellower shade than black oxide,” says Baki. “By creating a warm shade, the foundation looks like skin. Additionally, ultramarine blue has a lower refractive index than iron oxide.” Baki added that this also helps reduce opaque colors and reduces what is called “gray cast.”
Although not yet published, the new work to be unveiled at the American Chemical Society (ACS) spring meeting reveals how the team saw the effects of ultramarine blue by creating 20 powder foundations and 18 stick foundations in both dark and light shades.
The researchers analyzed the powder color using a spectrophotometer and visually evaluated it on both special paper and when applied to the participant's inner forearm.
Baki added that ultramarine blue can be useful for both dark and bright foundations by allowing for the creation of various undertones, but could be converted for the former as it reduces the grey cast.
“Based on our research, we recommend combining black oxide with ultramarine blue. However, ultramarine blue can also be used alone as a dark pigment. It depends on what skin tone and undertones you need to achieve on the basis,” Baki said.
“For very dark skin tones, ultramarine blue may not be sufficient to match consumer skin tone values, as it creates a brighter base compared to black oxide at the same rate. If you need to create a dark color, combining black and blue can provide a skin tone than iron oxide alone.”
This study provides examples of how to create a more comprehensive foundation line for consumers. “You need to add ultramarine blue to the foundations of all shades, expand the undertones of the same shade and create a more skin-like foundation shade,” Baki said.
