When Ayva Peña received her first phone at age 10, her fascination with skin care really took off. Initially, she and her mom, Giselle, shared the experience, spending time together doing spa days filled with face masks and shopping for new products. But everything changed when Giselle stumbled upon a $300 anti-aging cream hidden in Ayva’s drawer. That discovery deeply upset her.
“She’s only 15,” Peña expressed her concern. “It claims to make your skin ageless and improve fine lines and wrinkles. I thought, ‘This isn’t for you!’” This reaction highlights a broader anxiety among parents about how social media is pushing kids and teens toward indulging in overly complex and often age-inappropriate skin care routines. A recent study published in Pediatrics seems to validate those worries.
The research looked at beauty routines from 100 TikTok videos featuring users aged 7 to 18. It found that these routines included an average of 11 active ingredients that could irritate the skin and increase the likelihood of skin allergies. Alarmingly, only about a quarter of the videos recommended sunscreen. “Most of the kids featured had no visible acne; they had flawless skin,” noted Dr. Molly Hales, the study’s lead author. “In many cases, the negatives probably outweigh any positives.”
With ranging costs from $168 to over $500 for a month’s worth of skincare that often included a lengthy six-step regimen, it’s quite the investment. Hales pointed out, “When kids wake up at 5:30 AM just to layer all these products, it seems less about health and more about chasing an unrealistic beauty ideal.” This raises significant ethical questions regarding how social media content impacts young people.
A TikTok representative commented that such content is prevalent across all media platforms but emphasized that users must be at least 13 years old, stating that accounts suspected of belonging to younger children are deleted. They also noted that TikTok collaborates with experts in adolescent development to ensure safety policies are upheld.
Interestingly, the researchers found that many routines lacked sun protection yet included products that could heighten sun sensitivity and the risk of skin cancer. Commonly used ingredients included alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), which although they can brighten skin, also increase vulnerability to UV rays. “I’d recommend daily sunscreen for everyone, particularly for those using AHAs,” Hales advised.
These AHAs and vitamin-based compounds like niacinamide may cause skin irritation, especially if overused. “Often, the girls might not realize they’re applying the same active ingredients multiple times,” Dr. Tara Lagu, another co-author, added, “which escalates the risk of irritation.” Notably, over half of the products studied contained fragrances linked to allergic reactions.
Misinformation poses a significant concern on social media platforms, especially for young content creators, as Dr. Sonal Shah highlighted. “These sources might lack the scientific grounding needed to understand the products they’re promoting and their associated risks,” she stated, mentioning that board-certified dermatologists on TikTok could provide more credible advice.
Shah also pointed out other trends she has seen in her practice—like mechanical exfoliants that are often too harsh for delicate facial skin—though these weren’t part of the current study. The findings further indicated a tendency among creators to provide advice tailored to lighter skin tones, leaving out important considerations for individuals with darker complexions.
Both Shah and Hales suggest a simple skincare routine for those under 18 not suffering from acne, comprising a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturizer, and a mineral sunscreen. They both agree that children likely won’t gain anything from anti-aging products, as collagen production levels are highest during youth.
However, as kids hit puberty, hormonal changes might trigger more acne. In such cases, Shah recommends over-the-counter treatments featuring salicylic acid or low concentrations of benzoyl peroxide. “Their skincare doesn’t need to be complicated or costly,” she emphasized, advising parents to consult a dermatologist if skin issues persist.
Ultimately, if parents are concerned about their child’s skincare, it’s important to have those conversations, says Jennifer Harriger, a psychology professor with expertise in childhood development. “Open dialogues about social media messages and children’s motivations behind skincare purchases are crucial,” she remarked.
Lastly, Hales pointed out the social aspect of youth skincare content, indicating that these videos can represent a form of self-expression that resonates with young viewers. “These are girls emerging into their identities, figuring out how they want to present themselves. It’s a vital part of growing up.”
