It resembled a typical British beach day—only with nicer weather. With our umbrella, towels, sunscreen, water, and picnic in a cool box, my husband, son, and I turned away from the Porto Paro marina near Memphi, in the southwest of Sicily, and headed west. This led us to Le Solette, a charming half-mile stretch of golden sand nestled between rocky outcrops, just about a ten-minute drive down a winding coastal road. This beach was stunning, boasting soft sand and crystal-clear water that ranged from turquoise to deep indigo. But, interestingly, the most remarkable thing wasn’t just the scenery.
Beach resorts in northern and central Italy often strike me as peculiar. Typically, you’re fighting for space on a beach largely covered by umbrellas. Yes, it’s convenient—there are facilities nearby—but at what price? I had visited a resort in Liguria in northwestern Italy and was faced with long walks past walls instead of enjoying the ocean’s view. It felt more like navigating rows of beach cabins.
However, there are tranquil and less-developed beaches to discover in southern Italy, like parts of Sardinia and Sicily, well away from bustling cities. For instance, Mondello near Palermo has lovely bathing spots. One area we really enjoyed was around Memphi, about an hour and twenty minutes south of Sicily’s capital. Many of the town’s historic buildings were lost in a 1968 earthquake, so there’s not much architecture to admire, but the region is renowned for its fantastic food and wine production, with plenty of excellent restaurants and farmers’ markets to explore.
Even better, it’s just a few miles from the busier coastline; a golden sand beach with blue flag status has thrived there for nearly two decades, separated by rugged headlands and quaint villages. Interestingly, Tunisia lies just a hundred miles away—definitely closer than Naples or Rome.
We stayed at a low-rise holiday rental, Villa Melograno, which accommodates six people and costs around 1,430 euros a week. Located just outside Memphi, we enjoyed pleasant early June weather and ocean views from the garden, dreaming of the seaside.
On one particularly lazy day, we hung out at Lido Fiori, nestled by the nearest sand dune. It features some small shops, a handful of fish restaurants overlooking the beach, and a clear stream on its western edge.
For a livelier experience, we ventured to Porto Paro, a fishing village with great pizza options for dinner. Reaching Le Solette required a little more effort, but it was worth it for a blissful day spent swimming, snoozing, and snorkeling in peace—there were hardly any other souls in sight.
August sees a surge of visitors on the Memphi coast, as locals from Palermo and elsewhere flock to the area, causing the temperature to soar. But, you know, the shoulder season holds its own charm. For instance, the parking lots by the coast don’t usually start charging until mid-June, and with highs around 21–25°C, October could also be an appealing time to visit.
It’s a golden sandy beach with blue flag status, flanked by rugged headlands and charming little villages.
The land around Memphi is rich and sun-kissed, famed for its olives, grapes, and unique vegetables. We enjoyed shopping at the local farmers’ market—held in Memphi on Wednesdays and Porto Paro on Friday evenings—where we found ripe tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and plenty of local cheese and cured meats.
One renowned olive oil producer, Rabbida, has been respected for over 250 years and even sells internationally, including at Waitrose. They offer tours and tastings, and when I return in the fall, I’ll aim to join their “Family Olive Harvest” experience, where participants can handpick olives and enjoy ultra-fresh oil with bread.
New attractions are emerging in the area, like Ricupa Open Farm, which opened near Casar last fall. It’s a delightful spot where kids can learn to collect eggs and harvest fruits and vegetables.
At the start of this century, Memphi was just beginning to witness a wine renaissance, rekindling traditions lost since Roman times. Now, it’s known for producing high-quality wines across 7,000 hectares, contributing to 40% of Sicily’s exported labeled wines. I stopped by Mandra Rossa Winery, enjoyed several tastings on their panoramic terrace, and still remember the rich flavors lingering long after.
On another day, we rented bikes from Sunzone in Menfi and rode along a scenic path that once served as a railway line from Menfi to Porto Palo. We even indulged in some gelato along the way. Our son was so inspired that he cycled back east the following day, eventually meeting us after ten miles at a Baroque center home to an intriguing port.
While Selinunte, about twenty minutes from Memphi, draws crowds, the famous Valley of the Temples at Agrigento could be the go-to spot this year, with 2025 being the year for the less-crowded Selinunte, established in the 7th century BC. On one clear morning, I found myself almost alone there, wandering among the ruins against the backdrop of the sparkling sea.
Selinunte thrived for about 240 years before facing destruction by the Carthaginians during the first Punic Wars, compounded by natural disasters and looting over time.
And there, one can just soak in the surroundings, basking under the sun and listening to the gentle waves. It’s a truly lovely stretch of coastline.
Additional Dining and Lodging Options
Casale Abate offers one- and two-bedroom bungalows with shared pools starting at 427 euros a week, about a 15-minute drive from the nearest beach.
Next to Lido Fiori Beach, Le 4 Stagioni has rooms listed at 90 euros B&B and apartments starting at 100 euros. The restaurant there is known for local fish dishes paired with Sicilian wines and craft beers.
Sarisa, a more recent addition along the beach, is a lovely seafood restaurant that provides new accommodations among fields. Rooms from 126 euros B&B come with breakfast and pool access.
In Menfi, La Regina di Alabastro offers a variety of traditional fish and meat dishes along with great pizzas. Elegant rooms range for 110 euros, accommodating up to five people. In summer, we often traveled back and forth between the town and Porto Paro, as well as Lido Fiori.
