Exploring the Fat Badger in Notting Hill

Head over to Notting Hill and check out the Fat Badger, a Secret Exclusive Dining Room and Pub that teases visitors with its hidden charm. It opened its doors earlier this year, initially as an exclusive invite-only spot. Since then, it has softened its entrance policies, allowing guests to enjoy the top floor, which feels like an ideal setting for beer, martinis, and set menus. It’s interesting to think about how the Fat Badger once operated on a strict invitation basis. “Eat the rich!” might seem fitting here, right? Although, it’s a challenge to track them down since they don’t make themselves obvious. This quirky establishment is perched above several stories on Portobello Road and is accessed through what appears to be a goods entrance tucked away on a side street.

Upon ascending the two flights of stairs, guests are greeted by the pub and dining area adorned with elegant wooden panels and flickering candles. While it’s undoubtedly captivating, one might argue it doesn’t attempt anything revolutionary—Margot Robbie and Jamie Dornan have reportedly been seen here, but that doesn’t fully capture the experience. Indeed, in recent years, London has seen a surge of innovative pubs, like Piccadilly’s Devonshire and Club Knight in Shoreditch, that aim to bring a fresh twist to the idea of a pub. Here at the Fat Badger, people gather, drink, and converse, creating an authentic atmosphere. When they first opened, word circulated about selling a single cigarette behind the bar for those heading to the smoking area. Such oddities, once commonplace, have been rebranded into a stylish experience. By the time of my visit last week, that unusual offering was no longer on the menu.

The dining options on the second floor are, I must say, quite impressive. George Williams from the River Cafe teams up with Ballymaloe Cookery School graduate Beth O’Brien to create something special here. However, there’s a catch—a no-selection menu. This doesn’t mean it’s just flashy or pretentious; instead, expect hearty combinations of meat and vegetables, accompanied by indulgent desserts. But you won’t know what’s being served until the dishes arrive. It’s all kept under wraps, which adds a layer of intrigue, but does come with a price tag of £85 per person.

Upon asking about preferences and any allergies, a delightful array of foods begins to flow from the kitchen, impressing even the pickiest of eaters. We were treated to thick nettle soup, complemented by refreshing Irish soda bread and rich salted butter. Next came exquisite tempura lobster served in tacos made from thin slices of celeriac.

Then, the spotlight turned to an impressive beef fillet accompanied by Hasselback potatoes—definitely a main event. The salty trout belly served on burnt toast was more intriguing than flavorful, yet the grilled pigeon served atop the toast was robust and savory. There was more trout, this time transformed into a fresh paté paired with salty bread. If the Fat Badger is gaining a reputation as a trendy Notting Hill party spot, it’s really the culinary offerings that stand out.

A generous serving of lobster gravy with scallops, sprinkled with fresh peas and bits of pork jowl followed next. The scallops, though initially daunting, turned out to be tender and delicious, and the peas—oh, you could almost taste them being picked right from the pod. Here, you can truly sense the focus on quality ingredients.

Dessert offered a surprising delight: a strawberry-basil sorbet, which surprisingly worked wonderfully. Freshly made sticky donuts came with apple sauce and topped off with chunks of apple crumble ice cream. While the Fat Badger may have positioned itself as one of London’s newest trendy spots, I can confidently say that this delightful dessert stole the show.

Even if you aren’t famous or in the know, the Fat Badger is welcoming and vibrant. I think most will find it a gratifying experience, and really, who wouldn’t enjoy that?

• Fat Badger 310 Portobello Road, London W10 (no phone). Open Tuesday to Saturday for dinner only, from 5:30 PM (last orders); Sunday lunch from noon to 3:30 PM, dinner offers a 4-course set menu at £85 per person. Sunday features a 3-course set menu for £60, plus drinks and service.