Fine Dining Takes Water Seriously

Would you shell out $95 for a bottle of water? It seems that some upscale restaurants are banking on the idea that you just might.

Across hotspots from Los Angeles to Spain, many fine-dining venues are now presenting elaborate “water menus.” Guests can order water much like they would wine, complete with tasting notes and pairing suggestions, not to mention a strict “no ice” policy. According to a recent report in The Wall Street Journal, prices for these waters can vary widely, going from $11 to nearly $100.

Currently, there are about ten restaurants in the U.S. that feature comprehensive water menus. These include bottles such as the $12 Borjomi sparkling water from Georgia and the $11 Saratoga still water from New York. Evian and Fiji are popular choices, particularly for dessert options, given their subtly sweet aftertastes.

The Inn at Little Washington in Virginia boasts a rare offering: Berg, water sourced from a 15,000-year-old iceberg in Newfoundland, Canada, which costs $95 a bottle and has been described as tasting like “ancient snow and air.”

In Los Angeles, water sommelier Martin Riese mentions that his restaurant, Gwen, earns up to $100,000 a year from water sales alone. He emphasizes that adding ice or lemon can dull the delicate flavors.

Riese, along with Michael Masca, founder of the Fine Water Connoisseur platform, has trained numerous water sommeliers worldwide since 2006, as part of a burgeoning trend. This includes extensive selections abroad, such as a Spanish menu that features over 150 choices from 33 different countries.

Industry statistics reveal that the global premium bottled water market exceeds $36 billion and grows at approximately 7% each year.

“If you can serve various vodkas in a bar without raising eyebrows, why not do the same with water?” Riese quips, recalling his appearance as a water expert on Bravo’s “Top Chef” in 2014.

Anastasia Choban, a certified water sommelier at Vivreau, a premium water filtration company based in Seattle, notes that the increasing interest in health-conscious beverage options is contributing to this “fine water” phenomenon. According to her, the younger Generation Z is notably driving this trend, as they’re opting for less alcohol but can definitely tell the difference among tap, filtered, and bottled waters.

Choban explains that, “The secret to quality water lies in its source and the filtration method used.” She elaborates that the mineral content, such as magnesium and potassium, affects not just the taste but how well it pairs with food and wine.

Interestingly, there are mixed reactions to this movement. On a subreddit discussing Gwen’s water menu, one user humorously suggested, “If you bring your own Brita, maybe I’ll decant it for you.” Another commented, however, that they had enjoyed the “American filter tap,” finding it surprisingly satisfying.

But not everyone is on board this trendy wave. Some fans feel the initiative puts a greater significance and appreciation back into what we drink, while others joke about the potentially absurd direction it could take.