Closure of NYC’s Only Ethiopian-Israeli Restaurant Amid Harassment
The proprietor of Tzion Cafe, New York City’s only Ethiopian-Israeli restaurant, has claimed that a surge of harassment linked to the Gaza conflict has compelled her to shut down. This has led to demands for an investigation into anti-Semitism by local and state officials.
Beeji Barhani, an Ethiopian immigrant who launched the restaurant in Harlem in 2014, noted that hostility toward her establishment escalated dramatically following Hamas’s assault on Israel on October 7, 2023, and the subsequent military actions in Gaza.
“I answered the phone one day, and the caller said, ‘You dirty Jew. We should wipe you off the map,'” Barhani recounted. Such incidents of vitriol have been painfully common.
Barhani expressed her deep sadness and disappointment at the prevalence of bigotry. “It feels overwhelming. We just can’t carry this burden anymore,” she added.
Originally moving to Israel before her relocation to New York, Barhani mentioned that the hate she faced was especially painful as her goal was always to use her culinary talents to unite people.
“Everything is different now. The level of hostility has increased significantly,” Barhani remarked earlier, reflecting on the aftermath of the attack.
To complicate matters, she had changed the cafe’s menu to exclusively vegan and kosher in February 2024, which she feels may have exacerbated the negative reactions. “I was proud to be Jewish and wanted that to be known,” she shared in a recent interview. “But once we transitioned to kosher, things deteriorated rapidly.”
Barhani recalled an experience when a group of young passersby told potential customers, “Don’t ever come here. It’s owned by Israelis.” This kind of intimidation has taken a toll on her morale. “It’s exhausting. You’re just trying to serve the community, but you feel like the enemy,” she noted.
In response to the continuous harassment and the restaurant’s closure for regular dining, the Jewish Community Relations Council filed a formal grievance with Attorney General Letitia James and Mayor Zoran Mamdani, advocating for a civil rights investigation.
Mark Trager, CEO of the JCRC, emphasized that it’s unacceptable for small business owners to feel threatened due to their identity. He pointed out that Barhani faced harassment strictly because of her Israeli and Jewish identity.
“Holding her personally accountable for Israel’s actions is unequivocally anti-Semitic,” Trager remarked. “No one should have to feel forced to alter their business due to hatred.”
City Auditor Mark Levine, who mentioned that Tzion Café is one of his favorites, condemned the harassment as blatant bigotry. “Now they’re shutting their doors. Why? Because of ongoing hostility. It intensified two years ago when they became kosher,” he stated.
Despite the challenges, Barhani has made it clear that she refuses to conceal her identity. “I am a proud black Ethiopian Jew,” she affirmed.
Barhani is also the founder of the Beta Israel of North America Cultural Foundation, which celebrates the heritage of Ethiopian Jews. Several other Jewish establishments, such as Bread Bakery on the Upper West Side, have similarly faced criticism from pro-Palestinian and anti-Israel activists.
The offices of Commissioner James and Mayor Mamdani did not provide immediate comments regarding the situation.
