From Ecologist to Winemaker: The Journey of Eric Gromsky
Eric Gromsky recalls the moment he encountered his “liquid landscape.” Even back then, he wasn’t a winemaker. Instead, he was a restoration ecologist, wandering the perennial streams of central Arizona, taking note of river systems and abandoned homes.
During his outdoor explorations, he stumbled upon heirloom apples growing wild. He gathered them in a backpack and then, with guidance from his mentor, made apple wine. Eight months later, he experienced what he describes as an “epiphany.” “I realized that I was having an artistic experience in a landscape that was neither analytical nor scientific,” he reflects.
After that, he left graduate school behind and headed to California, working at a winery and living out of his truck. Eventually, he secured a position at the renowned David Bruce Winery in the Santa Cruz Mountains. For nearly six years, he immersed himself in a culture that always asked, “What’s best for wine?”
However, Gromsky had his sights set on Arizona from the start. “I’ve always wanted to return to Arizona and make wines that represent Arizona,” he noted. In 2003, he established Page Springs Cellars & Vineyards in the Verde Valley, believing that the volcanic soils, limestone deposits, and high elevation held vast untapped potential.
Interestingly, Gromsky points out that contrary to popular belief, Arizona’s wine country isn’t a stark desert landscape. “My primary challenges are frost, freeze, and monsoon rains,” he explained, which defies the expectations most people have of the region. His vineyards are situated from 3,500 to 5,500 feet above sea level. “It snows regularly in my vineyard,” he added, emphasizing how mountainous the area is.
Gromsky cultivates Rhône varieties that showcase distinct personalities based on their soil and location. He has multiple vineyards for Syrah and notes that the differences in flavor are unmistakable.
For Gromsky, the uniqueness of each wine is crucial. He considers himself an ambassador for Arizona, expressing pride in his business, but also in the state’s potential. “I believe in Arizona,” he affirmed.
That belief faced a serious test in 2006 when legislation proposed by out-of-state distributors aimed to prevent small Arizona wineries from selling directly to consumers. Gromsky, alongside a small group of winemakers, faced a notice from the Arizona Liquor Authority demanding they cease direct consumer sales. “It was a coercive market control move,” he said.
Determined to fight back, Gromsky and his peers took to the Capitol, seeking support from lawmakers. After months of canvassing, they succeeded in changing the bill, allowing small wineries to thrive.
In the years that followed, Arizona’s wine landscape flourished, with the number of wineries surging from eight to over 100. Gromsky believes that the state is poised for significant growth in the coming decade, saying, “I think Arizona is going to make some big waves.”
Today, Page Springs’ wines, like the Alma del Suero red and white blends, reflect the state’s evolving identity. Gromsky wants his wines to convey a sense of Arizona authenticity. “I wanted it to really speak about Arizona,” he stated.
As he looks to the future, Gromsky acknowledges that Arizona is still in the midst of defining its winemaking identity. “But I think it’s moving in a promising direction,” he concluded, confident in the potential for innovation and investment in the industry.
