Long Island’s Oyster Industry Struggles
This past winter took a toll on Long Island’s oyster producers, leaving many in a tough spot because of severe cold that resulted in substantial inventory and profit losses.
“Right now, we’re seeing about a 10 percent increase in our clams and oyster prices,” shared Danny Pepi, the manager of Vincent’s Clam Bar in Carle Place.
Over at Popeye’s Clam Bar, owner Joe Real is buying oysters at similar elevated prices, but even they are facing challenges securing enough supply. “You might order 300 or 400 oysters, and then only receive 200,” Real noted.
Eric Kepel, who heads the Long Island Oyster Growers Association, described this winter as “the worst winter of the century,” emphasizing the economic strain felt by many producers.
Peter Stein, founder of Peco Oysters based in New Suffolk, reported devastating financial losses, estimating them to be in the six figures at least. “We’ve likely lost over a million oysters this season,” he stated.
Stein’s oysters are typically served at well-known restaurants in New York City, such as Keith McNally’s Balthazar and Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern. Unfortunately, he recently had to inform his city customers that he’d need to pause distributions due to inventory shortages.
He joked lightly about needing “to talk to enough therapists,” highlighting the stress the situation has caused.
The frigid January and February temperatures created ice that damaged submerged crops and made equipment unusable, leading to multiple challenges. Additionally, this harsh winter also drove up lobster prices across Long Island.
Kepel estimates that local producers, who collectively harvest about 10 million oysters each year, sustained around $2.3 million in equipment damage, averaging a 33 percent loss in harvests. “That’s a pretty disheartening figure,” he remarked.
To address the situation, the association has initiated a program to retrieve damaged equipment that has washed ashore.
Stein reported being forced to dedicate resources to collect the equipment, which translated to losses equivalent to the salaries of a few people who couldn’t assist with farm development.
He also emphasized that the Peconic Bay, a sizable body of water that separates Long Island’s North and South Forks, was so frozen this winter that someone could walk across it.
Phil Mastrangelo, co-owner of Oyster Ponds Shellfish, shared that he and his team had to use chainsaws to cut through the thick ice near their farm. It was quite a shocking experience for someone who has been in the oyster farming business for years.
Although Mastrangelo invested around $50,000 to prepare for winter, he considers himself somewhat fortunate. “The ice damaged about $200,000 worth of our equipment,” he noted.
There are additional challenges on the horizon as Canadian oysters from regions like Prince Edward Island are facing trouble as well, affecting prices further. Mastrangelo mentioned that while Canadian oysters are going for 90 cents wholesale, he has to sell his for just 70 cents.
Kepel warned that half of Canada’s oyster harvest might see negative effects due to the health issues they’re facing.
On a more hopeful note, both Pepi and Stein have mentioned that there could be a drop in oyster prices as the weather warms up.
Mastrangelo pointed out that the summer’s success will depend on weather in the upcoming weeks. “Sunlight is crucial; it helps algae thrive,” he pointed out, emphasizing the need for a dry April.
Stein is also exploring other avenues for his Peco Oysters, looking at tastings, partnerships, and agrotourism as ways to stay afloat. “We’ll make the best out of this tough situation,” he said, expressing a sense of optimism despite current challenges.
