Jim Whitaker, Pioneering Mountaineer, Passes Away at 97

Jim Whitaker, the renowned mountaineer who made history as the first American to reach the summit of Mount Everest, has passed away at the age of 97. His family announced that he died at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.

“He had a passion for sharing adventure, joy, and optimism with everyone around him,” said his son, Leaf Whitaker, in a statement. “His kindness and belief in nature’s ability to unite people will always be remembered.”

Whitaker achieved the remarkable feat of climbing Everest in 1963 alongside Nawang Gombu, a decade after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s historic ascent. This climb not only raised interest in mountaineering within the United States but also turned Whitaker, who was relatively introverted, into a national figure, leading to numerous magazine covers and public appearances.

Starting his career at REI in 1955, he became the retailer’s first full-time employee and later served as president and CEO. Under his leadership, the co-op’s membership skyrocketed from about 250,000 to over 900,000 by the time he stepped down in 1979.

His advocacy was pivotal in the establishment of several national parks, including North Cascades and Redwood National Parks. REI credited him with using his voice to protect wild places long before outdoor advocacy became mainstream.

Whitaker’s celebrity also connected him with prominent figures like the Kennedy family. He forged a close friendship with Robert Kennedy, climbing a 14,000-foot peak in Canada, which was later named Mount Kennedy in honor of the assassinated presidential candidate. He was present during Kennedy’s last moments and was deeply affected by the tragedy.

Growing up in Seattle, Whitaker started mountaineering in the 1940s with his twin brother, Lou. He recounted a significant moment in his life when, at 16, he climbed Mount Olympus and returned home just as World War II was ending, with the streets bustling with celebration.

With numerous climbs under his belt, including a notable expedition to K2, Whitaker’s adventures secured his place in mountaineering history. Interestingly, while Lou decided to leave the Everest expedition to open a sporting goods store, he later filled in for Jim during honoring events, a detail that was known only to close family.

In 1990, he led the International Peace Climb of Everest, involving climbers from the U.S., the Soviet Union, and China, aimed at showcasing global cooperation.

Whitaker took pride in leading disabled climbers to the summit of Mount Rainier in 1981, an experience he described as equally monumental as reaching Everest. He climbed Rainier more than 100 times, always remaining respectful of its unpredictable nature.

His legacy has been highlighted by figures like former Washington Governor Jay Inslee, who remarked that Whitaker’s impact is “as enduring as Mount Rainier.” He once famously expressed a humble wish for his own passing, saying he hoped to “die in my sleep with the television on.”

Whitaker is survived by his wife, Diane, their three sons, and several grandchildren and great-grandchildren.