A Family Adventure on the Kennett and Avon Canal

Imagine this: a bag of freshly baked sourdough bread in one hand and a nice local cheese in the other. As I turned the corner near Trowbridge in Wiltshire, I steadied myself for what was ahead. We were about to spend a week on a narrow boat, and honestly, I expected a lot of bickering and screen time from my husband and four Gen Z kids (aged 18 to 24). To my surprise, they were all engrossed in books.

We decided to skip family vacations to hot, exotic, or Mediterranean places. Honestly, it’s just too much, sometimes. Flights take too long, and I’m always juggling work. But as I planned this year’s getaway, a wave of anxiety washed over me. How would we cope in such confined quarters? What if we ran out of things to do and ended up glued to our phones?

After a two-hour drive from London, we made a pit stop at Avebury’s stone circle and arrived in Devizes, Wiltshire, after exploring a famous rock flight at Caen Hill Locks. My eye roll returned when I saw that the kids might have to sleep in the kitchen area. Thankfully, there were two (very tiny) bathrooms!

The sunset painted the horizon in hues of pink and tangerine, a heron perched on our boat’s roof—and I felt, well, a sense of freedom.

“I can just head back if things get too hectic,” I half-joked, wishing I had an easy way out. But after a quick lesson on steering from a man at Foxhangers, our family found ourselves maneuvering this 21-meter boat, with all six of us squeezed together on deck, enjoying a bottle of local rosé. The sunset draped the hills in golden green; swans glided by, small fish leaped out of the water, and I swear, it felt like the rest of the world faded away. That night, we slept soundly.

As the days rolled on, we felt farther removed from our usual hectic lives. Our speed was a leisurely 3 mph as we drifted past the Avon River, marveling at the magnificent Dunder and Avoncliffe aqueducts. In the evenings, we would navigate ancient bridges and chat with other boaters. It turns out, the community of narrow boaters was warm and inviting. Many lived on the canals full-time, cooking on campfires and tending to gardens atop their boats. Honestly, it was way more interesting than any television show.

Our first stop was in Hilperton, where we stumbled upon a quaint eatery that felt like Wiltshire’s equivalent to London’s renowned Petersham Nurseries, but at a fraction of the cost. The Avon Field Kitchen served some decadent brunches and, I might add, the best chili eggs we’ve ever tasted.

In Bradford-on-Avon, we took time to explore the enchanting 11th-century Saxon St. Lawrence Church—one of the UK’s most significant Saxon buildings—as well as the Tithe Barn, a sizable medieval structure. We even visited a local museum that showcased interiors from a Victorian pharmacy. Believe it or not, entry was free!

I couldn’t resist browsing through Ex Libris, a charming second-hand bookshop boasting 6,000 books, and we enjoyed visiting the local craft shops on Shambles, an old pedestrian street. One highlight was our discovery of a fantastic bakery, Pipit, where we ardently returned for their almond croissants and sourdough loaves.

Moving on to Avoncliffe, we came across the Kingfisher, an ancient waterwheel pump station, and stopped for tea at a lovely tea garden, where we indulged in a selection of cakes. By then, everyone had taken a turn at the steering, and let me tell you, it wasn’t as simple as it appeared. One daughter managed to bump another boat, while I awkwardly tried to navigate sideways, ending up stuck against a bank until rescued by a group of teens doing a Duke of Edinburgh challenge.

My fears about too much screen time were unwarranted. I discovered the canals often have poor reception, so our phones rarely worked.

Before we knew it, we found ourselves at Sydney Gardens, just outside Bath. We borrowed bikes to explore old rail tracks linking Bath and Bristol. Afterward, I treated myself to a delightful sandwich at Green Street Butchers, where I also snacked on flavorful cinnamon and cardamom bread from Landrace Bakery. For a night in Bath, we dodged the crowds and found ourselves gravitating toward a cozy pub quiz.

Much to my surprise, my concerns about too much screen time turned out to be baseless. With poor phone reception, our devices hardly saw the light. If you ever need a digital cleanse, I highly recommend a trip down a canal—the signal in rural areas is typically spotty. When we did get a signal, our phones felt overwhelming and almost harsh in the tranquil setting.

The steady rhythm of the canal eased our minds, and I found little desire to share our adventures on social media. By the end of the week, our phone usage dropped by about 70%, and believe it or not, mine had the least usage. Who would’ve thought?

If you’re considering a narrowboat holiday, Fox Hanger offers options ranging from two to nine beds, with prices starting around £610 for a four-night stay for 2-4 people, and going up to £2,458 a week for larger groups in August.