Occasionally, a local eatery named La Triquera offers Millefoglie Vanilla gelato with strawberries among its usual selections like lemon sorbet, tiramisu, and vanilla gelato. It’s possible that you’ve come across the Millefoglie before. But before it appears on the menu, you might find yourself sitting near the entrance, maybe at a dessert trolley or at the zinc bar.
The name Millefoglie, which means “a thousand leaves,” alludes to a concert of puff pastries. La Triquera creates a Millefoglie that’s approximately the size of a classic vinyl record. They layer three rings of pastries filled with custard and whipped cream, also known as diplomat cream. This preparation makes it a unique dessert. Interestingly, La Triquera only crafts a Millefoglie if a sizable group requests it. Yet, others in the restaurant can still enjoy the leftovers from that order. I think the kitchen might make two at a time, but I’m not entirely certain.
Inspired by La Triquera, and having tasted my fair share of millefeuille, I’ve wanted to include a version of Millefoglie in this column for ages. It’s been roughly ten years, and I still haven’t nailed making proper puff pastries or the delicate pastry cream. A friend mentioned trying a version with Rough Puff (thanks to Jane Grigson) and cornflour-based pastry cream. But to be honest, just thinking about making both still makes me a bit anxious.
The beauty of Millefoglie is that even if things don’t go precisely as planned, the combination of pastries, custard, and cream still tastes amazing. And let’s face it, if all else fails, you can always adapt elements to create something like Eton Mess. Honestly, cutting a perfect rectangle can be a challenge, so a bit of chaos can actually work in your favor. Use a sharp knife to poke holes in the pastry, like a postage stamp, and attempt to cut those “thousand leaves.”
Millefoglie (Puff pastry and cream sandwich cake)
Serves 4-6
250g plain flour
220g very cold butter, diced
1 tsp salt
2 tsp lemon juice
500ml whole milk, warmed
1 egg and 3 egg yolks
80g caster sugar
65g cornflour
150ml double cream
Icing sugar for dusting
Start by washing the bowl and letting it chill. Combine the flour and butter, rubbing them together until they look like fine breadcrumbs. Add salt and the remaining butter. Then mix in the iced water and lemon juice until the dough comes together.
On a floured surface, shape the dough into a rectangle about 10cm x 20cm. Dust the top with flour. Roll it out with a smooth pin to double its size, fold the ends in toward the center, then fold in half again so it resembles a book. Turn it and repeat the rolling and folding, then wrap it up and refrigerate for an hour.
While that’s cooling, in a saucepan over low heat, combine 1 tablespoon of the egg, the yolk, sugar, cornflour, and warm milk to create a thick paste. Gradually add the remaining warm milk, whisking constantly until it thickens. Once done, transfer to a bowl and allow it to cool. Whip the cream until thick, then chill it.
On a floured surface, roll the dough into a rectangle of about 25cm x 20cm. Cut it into three equal strips. If possible, chill the strips again, then arrange them on a baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, poking holes in them. Bake in a preheated 180°C (160°C fan) oven for about 30 minutes or until golden brown, then let them cool completely. Once they are cool, fold the whipped cream into the custard.
Place one pastry strip on a plate and spread or pipe a layer of the cream mixture over it. Add the second pastry strip on top, cover it with more cream, and finish with the final pastry strip. Dust with icing sugar.
