Now that’s right, Amore.
Frank Pepe’s renowned coal-fired pizza establishment, beloved by both celebrities and locals, is celebrating its 100th anniversary this month in New Haven, Connecticut.
Founded on June 16, 1925, by Italian immigrant Frank Pepe and his wife, Philomena, this “Apizza” spot set the standard for the city’s signature tomato pie, fostering devoted fans over the years.
Currently managed by the third generation of the family, Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana has unveiled a new celebration, including a Tribute Video featuring New Haven native and Oscar-nominated actor Paul Giamatti, along with local fans from New Haven and New York City.
“When I served New Yorkers at a New Haven restaurant, they would say, ‘I’m from New York and I’ll make the trip for your pizza—hand it over!'” shared Jennifer Bimonte Kelly, Pepe’s granddaughter, with the Post. “New Yorkers can be tough critics, so it gave me chills when they said it was good.”
Local and state officials, alongside the Pepe family, celebrated the milestone, with one saying he has loved Pepe’s since childhood, even officiating the renaming of a corner at Brown and Worcester Streets—the heart of the city’s Italian-American community—as the “Frank & Philomena Pepe Corner.”
Signature “Crunch” is Baked Immediately
For a full century, not just Connecticut residents have been raving about the famous pizza. There are now 16 other Pepe locations across the country, including in Yonkers, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Florida, Maryland, and Virginia.
The pizzeria has developed a cult-like following, attracting A-listers such as Giamatti, and even directing celebrities like Ron Howard, and Oscar winners like Meryl Streep, as well as past presidents Ronald Reagan and Bill Clinton.
When it opened in 1925, Pepe played a critical role in defining New Haven-style “apizza” (pronounced Ah-beat), which is essentially a thin pizza cooked in a coal-fired oven at temperatures exceeding 600°F. This results in a pizza that’s moisture-sealed, crispy, slightly charred, yet chewy.
While others may try to imitate the style, dedicated fans insist it can’t be duplicated. “It’s a signature like no other. The crust tastes even better than Italian bread. It just delivers that crunch,” Bimonte Kelly stated.
New Yorker Joey Pascal mentioned, “When people say New Haven pizza is on fire, they don’t understand it’s the charcoal that makes it special.” Now living in New York, he notes he often travels 90 minutes to Pepe at the urging of friends who crave it.
“Apizza” History
The pizzeria’s history began back in 1909 when Pepe immigrated from Italy. After returning from World War I, he settled in Worcester Square.
After marrying Philomena Volpi, he started selling tomato pies he made while working at a bakery, balancing trays of his unique “Apissa” on his head as he navigated the market.
By 1925, he’d saved enough to launch Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana.
In 1937, he expanded to a larger space next door, which remains the main location on Worcester Street today.
Come the early ’60s, Pepe contemplated selling the business as his son couldn’t take over. But his daughters had different ideas.
With the help of their mother Philomena, who had been the bookkeeper for over 40 years, they took the reins. Today, at 68, Bimonte Kelly continues her grandfather’s legacy at the original New Haven location.
I Was Fired
What sets Pepe’s pizza apart is the dough base. While New York pizza typically uses a recipe with breadcrumbs and sugar, Pepe’s makes use of a wetter, long-fermented dough.
They cook the pizza in a 100,000-pound coal-fired brick oven, a replica of the original from a century ago.
All ingredients are meticulously chosen, from volcanic soil-grown tomatoes near Mount Vesuvius to fresh clams sourced daily from Long Island Sound. They even import Pecorino cheese from Sardinia, Italy.
New Haven vs. New York
This unique combination has kept Pepe’s thriving for the last century, as it competes in the ongoing pizza rivalry between New Haven and New York. Pepe pledges to outshine Manhattan’s best slices.
“I view New York style as ‘lifestyle pizza’—pre-sliced, cheap, and grab-and-go. The New Haven style, however, is meant to be savored at the table with family and friends,” noted sources from the New Haven Pizza School.
Nicholas Ocelas, a New York City resident who grew up in New Haven County, has been enjoying Pepe’s since his birth. “It’s an authentic experience,” he remarked. “Every minute spent waiting in line is worth it. The vibe from each pie is hard to put into words.”
Bimonte Kelly remains dedicated to her grandfather’s legacy, grateful for the love from their patrons. “My grandpop always taught me to treat people with honor and respect,” she reflected. “You don’t brag; everything can be taken away in an instant.”
For many locals, the New Haven location represents more than just great pizza. It’s a connection to nostalgia.
Pascale mentioned, “If you check out photos of Wooster Street and Pepe’s, nothing seems to have changed. The old-school vibe remains.” He enjoys watching people as they stroll around, soaking in the atmosphere.
“Energy, Humility, Existence, Passion”
“I am extremely grateful and humble,” Bimonte Kelly expressed emotionally. “The love our clients show us is overwhelming.” She frequently thanks customers waiting in line by snapping her fingers and inviting them to appreciate the experience.
“To this day, I’m moved by the energy and passion of both past and present customers,” she concluded. “I genuinely feel the love, unity, teamwork, and resilience all around.”
