New Book Exposes the Realities of Supermarket Work in Utah

Ann Larson’s recent publication sheds light on the harsh conditions faced by supermarket workers in Utah, focusing on their meager wages and difficult working environments.

• Many workers contend with low pay, a lack of benefits, and physical strain, with some resorting to wearing diapers due to inadequate break times.
• Larson advocates for a union-driven federal commission to revamp supermarket operations and improve worker benefits.

Supermarkets have long been a cherished part of American culture, providing fresh produce and convenience. Yet, Larson argues that, beneath the bright lights and cheerful music, a troubling truth lurks in her new book, Aisle 5 Cleaning, Essential Work, Poverty Wages, and the View from Behind the Supermarket Checkout (Atria/One Signal Publishers, June 9).

After starting as a supervisor and cashier at a grocery store in Utah in October 2020, Larson witnessed firsthand the struggles of her colleagues, many unable to afford basic food items while working in one of the lowest-paying sectors in retail. Their challenging circumstances led some to wear diapers, as they were often left with little time for breaks.

“Only as a grocery store insider could I see what grocery store work is really like and how it affects people,” Larson observes, sharing insights from her experience on the front lines.

While her colleagues worked tirelessly to ensure customers had access to fresh food, they faced dire financial choices, like deciding between groceries and health insurance. Overtime pay was nonexistent, and the absence of unions amplified their challenges. Many struggled with health issues but couldn’t afford treatment.

“During the year I worked there, the average hourly wage for grocery store associates across the country was less than $15 an hour,” Larson recounts, noting she earned $15.80 as a supervisor.

She recalls a co-worker named Stanley whose credit card was declined while trying to buy lunch. Additionally, her boss, Paula, would buy meat just after its expiration date to make ends meet.

One regular shopper, Cindy, aged 79, had been grocery shopping for nearly ten years but could only afford a small soup or a $2 children’s meal for lunch.

Larson details the physical toll supermarket jobs take, with cashiers experiencing painful injuries from repetitive motions. For instance, a cashier named Willow dealt with severe eczema, only to see skin peel off while helping customers because she couldn’t afford treatment. As Larson points out, it’s a physical job with mental stresses that many people don’t see.

Darth, another co-worker, constantly battled severe pain in his arm after working behind the scenes for years. Larson believes that the federal Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) should intervene to better protect these retail workers, expressing concern over the effectiveness of the agency in recent times.

Workers were frequently monitored, facing strict time constraints, which meant being tracked every minute. If they were more than 15 minutes late, they couldn’t log in. Breaks weren’t honored, leading to desperate measures like Travis, who, in missing his bathroom break, faced a humiliating accident, and others like Stanley who chose to wear diapers to avoid similar embarrassment.

Larson reflects on her own struggles, admitting that the supermarket work environment diminished her patience and judgment. She also notes the illusion of choice presented to shoppers, pointing out that many products on store shelves are often produced by a handful of major companies—often with dubious methods.

In her view, while supermarkets may appear to be a hallmark of capitalism, many products are intertwined with low wages, health risks, and environmental damage. Ultimately, Larson calls for a restructuring of supermarket practices, emphasizing the need for better healthcare, retirement benefits, and enforced overtime pay to ensure worker safety and dignity.

She highlights the shortcomings of self-checkout systems, which, instead of cutting costs, often leave employees to manage technology that customers find frustrating, drawing attention to the necessity of recognizing and rewarding grocery store workers adequately.

Quoting Martin Luther King Jr., Larson reminds us, “There is dignity in all labor,” driving home the urgent need for systemic changes to improve the lives of those working in supermarkets.