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If you can’t defeat them, consume them: New England addresses invasive green crabs with a cooking approach

Eating Green Crabs: An Innovative Approach to an Invasive Species

There’s a phrase that’s becoming popular among seafood enthusiasts in New England: “If you can’t beat them, eat them.” This reflects a growing initiative by both the seafood industry and local fishermen to manage the green crab population, recognized as one of the world’s most invasive species.

Green crabs may not offer much meat, but their impact on the shellfish industry and local ecosystems is significant. They’re omnivorous, a fact pointed out by Adrienne Pappal, who manages the Habitat and Water Quality Program at Massachusetts’ Coastal Zone Management office.

Introduced to New England during the mid to late 1980s, these crabs hitchhiked from Europe and West Africa on cargo ships. Much to the dismay of local fishermen, they’re incredibly adaptable, thriving in various marine environments—and they can reproduce rapidly. “They can survive in depths ranging from 30 to 100 feet, which contributes to their success,” Pappal adds, noting their widespread presence and the many negative effects they can have.

In Massachusetts, the green crab issue has become a tough challenge for the shellfish industry, according to Story Reed, deputy director of the Massachusetts Marine Fisheries Division. “Five towns along the North Shore have launched eradication programs primarily funded by the state to combat these crabs,” Reed explains. Interest has also spread to towns on Cape Cod as the effects on shellfish become more noticeable.

Jamie Bassett, a fisherman based in Chatham, shared his firsthand experience: “The green crab situation is serious,” he states. He notes that a single female can produce up to 180,000 eggs, making the potential for population explosion daunting. The green crab, according to him, remains a persistent invasive species problem.

Of course, finding a viable market for these crabs isn’t straightforward. “Restaurants hardly place orders for them like they would for lobster,” he said, adding that their unremarkable flavor makes them hard to sell. Yet, there are those like Sharon St. Ours, a seafood business owner with 45 years of experience, who think there’s a way to flip the narrative.

“When I discovered how they were impacting oyster populations, I thought we could do something about it,” she shared. Shifting her focus, St. Ours experimented with cooking green crabs and found them quite enjoyable. “They actually taste better than many might expect,” she insists.

She recently introduced Crab Broth Powder at the Seafood Exponent North America Trade Show, a project three years in the making. “I think there’s significant potential here,” she says, though acknowledging it’s not profitable yet. “But I’ve had a lot of interest.” The soup, in particular, received partial funding from the DMF’s seafood marketing program.

Reed mentions that it’s encouraging to see such innovation take shape and garner attention at international events. “It’s exciting to witness creativity in addressing sustainability,” he asserts, highlighting a chef’s willingness to experiment with alternative seafood options.

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