At Quiapo Church in central Manila, the Puses are full of worshippers. The latte secoma gathers near the entrance and grabs the fan to relieve the stifling fever.
Prayers are read in the memorial of Pope Francis, who is lovingly known as Rorokiko or Grandpa Francis.
This is one of many tributes and services throughout the Philippines recently, as one of the world’s largest Catholic populations has shown the death of the Pope.
President Ferdinand Marcos Jr. declared a period of national mourning that lasts until the burial of the Pope on Saturday. The buildings from the university to the mall hold light displays in yellow and white pope colors, and often violet, a symbol of asceticism. On Manila’s main avenue, Billboard declares: “Thank you very much, Pope Francis! We love you.”
Quiapo, like many other churches across the country, rang the bells to celebrate his death on Easter Monday.
“Pope Francis is the Pope we grew up with,” says 35-year-old Mario Amor, a member of Quiapo’s congregation. “To me, he is a very kind Pope.”
On the bustling boulevard outside the church, the food stalls are loaded with rosary beads, t-shirts decorated with images of Jesus, and figurines of Catholic saints.
Veronica Liponte, who had a food stall outside the church for 20 years, vividly remembers the Pope’s visit to the Philippines in 2015. “I didn’t have a raincoat and my umbrella couldn’t stand the rain,” she recalls. The miserable weather didn’t stop the masses from coming out. A record crowd of up to seven million people saw his procession.
His excitement was out of reach of the stage. Sale of things related to the Pope at Reponte’s food stalls is the sale of calendars, posters and even handkerchiefs decorated with the face of Francis. “I wanted to see him again,” she says.
In the Philippines, where 80% of the population is Catholic, the Pope is always respected. However, Francis was particularly loved. Many remember his 2015 visit, which came over a year after experiencing the devastating typhoon Haiyan, which killed more than 6,000 people.
Francis was reportedly advised to postpone a trip to Tacloban, the worst affected area, due to the risk of a tropical storm, but he decided to move on. In a yellow poncho covered in wind and rain, he stood in front of thousands of typhoon survivors, saying, “I’m here to be with you.” I cried as the man and woman were talking.
Francis was a pastor who “understands the meaning of suffering for Filipinos,” and came “at such a critical time in our history,” says Jayeel Cornelio, a sociologist specializing in the role of Catholics in the modern Philippines.
He also opened the church to otherwise excluded groups, including the LGBTQ+ community. “Many Filipinos [have described] …Social media, despite representing conservative institutions, how this was a person gave us hope for how faith is evolving,” says Cornelio.
Catholicism, brought to the Philippines by Spanish colonies in the 16th century, is deeply woven into the country’s culture and shapes its laws. Abortion is prohibited, with adultery and “sides” serving at least six months in prison. It is also the only place in the world other than the Vatican that does not have a divorce law, and there are efforts to change this, but public opinion has become sympathetic to divorce in recent years, reflecting the country’s Catholic change or understanding.
The church was once politically influential, and expelling two presidents, including the late dictator Ferdinand Marcos Sr., was at the forefront of the movement. But that power has faded. It was a particularly difficult time, especially as former leader Rodrigo Duterte’s president was a fatal “drug war,” where activists believed they had killed as many as 30,000 people. The priests were in conflict. Some people risked retaliation by criticizing the killing, while others did not.
Duterte continued to be extremely popular throughout the presidency despite international condemnation. Francis works “under the radar” and provides support to those who speak out, Cornelio says.
Leila de Lima, a fierce critic of Duterte, wrote in a statement this week:
Other rights groups also paid tribute. Philippine LGBTQ+ group Bahahali pointed to his “progressive yet controversial stance.” The group says they hope that Francis’ Pope will “become a spark” for a more inclusive church.
Currently, the Filipinos are supporting the next Pope.
The next Pope will be chosen by Cardinals University, many of whom are appointed by Francis, reflecting a more diverse church.
Louis Antonio Tagle, 67, from the Philippines, is among the people who run. He has similarly progressive outlook, but suggests that the Catholic Church’s attitude towards gay and divorced couples is too harsh. However, he opposes the Philippines’ abortion rights.
If chosen, Tagle is the first pope from Asia and is the region with the fastest growing Catholic population.
“The Italians may still want to get into power, but the signs of the times have changed,” says Cornelio.
If he is appointed, the country will be delighted, he says. “The Philippines is a pride of its people, from Miss Universe to Boxing.”
But returning to the Church of Quiapo, Mario Amor believes that in his new Pope’s choice, he has greater power than the Conclave.
“I’m fine with someone replacing him,” he says. “The Lord appoints a suitable person.”
