Reviving Bentley Rye: A Historical Whiskey Comeback

Before bourbon took over the liquor scene, rye whiskey was actually the frontrunner. Nowadays, distilleries in the Midwest are collaborating with scientists to reintroduce an ancient grain variety, specifically, the intriguing “Bentley Rye,” aiming for a spicy, robust whiskey.

There’s a shipwreck involved—specifically, the James R. Bentley, which sank in Lake Huron back in November 1878 after it ran aground. Remarkably, the entire crew was saved, and the ship itself still holds elements of its original cargo.

Chad Munger, the CEO of Mammoth Distilling, is pursuing the revival of this rye. He shared his thoughts about the project, noting that certain legal changes in Michigan prevent individuals from owning shipwrecks, something he’s navigated through personal legal battles.

With the ship’s owner’s permission, Munger’s team managed to retrieve a sample of rye that’s over 140 years old from the vessel. His excitement was palpable as he described the situation as quite unique.

Mammoth Distilling is no stranger to reviving old grains and previously resurrected a variety known as rosen rye. Their work often involves collaborating with the USDA Seed Bank, but Bentley Rye presents its own challenges due to its difficult germination process. Fortunately, Eric Olson from Michigan State University is sequencing its genome to aid in the effort.

Olson referred to Bentley Rye as a “historic treasure,” emphasizing its importance in understanding rye cultivation in the Great Lakes during the late 1800s. He expressed optimism, detailing plans to compare the DNA of 269 rye species with that of Bentley Rye to identify compatible varieties for hybridization. This process could take four to five years, but the potential is significant.

Interestingly, while Munger described the project as having a “Frankenstein” element, he highlighted that it’s about improving rye production globally. He reminisced that rye whiskey, which must have at least 51% rye grain, was once a staple in American distillation before bourbon took precedence. Munger believed that quality grains—like great wine grapes—greatly influence the whiskey’s character.

Reflecting on Michigan’s historical prominence in rye production, Munger noted, “150 years ago, Michigan was the North American capital for rye,” and he aims to help restore that legacy. He pointed out how the ban on rye production had devastating effects, wiping out the local industry.

Munger’s hope is that this initiative will not just revive an old grain, but also reinvigorate Michigan’s agricultural economy. “This is more than just a fascinating shipwreck story,” he remarked, alluding to its broader implications for the region. He’s optimistic that this could be the first step toward revitalizing Michigan’s economy, particularly its whiskey sector.