New Wave of Mexican Cuisine in New York City
Step aside, xiao long bao and dragon rolls; New York’s culinary spotlight is now shining on pork belly chicharrones and tacos calleheros. Interestingly, Mexican cuisine, enriched with Asian influences, is gaining newfound recognition, stepping into a space it hasn’t quite occupied before.
For ages, taco stands and Tex-Mex spots ruled, but a fresh breed of trendy, expansive Mexican restaurants is emerging—ones that evoke the atmosphere of popular Asian establishments like Hutongs, Nobu, and Tao.
Quality Brands Group, known for its visually appealing concepts such as Quality Meat and Bad Roman, has launched its first Mexican venue at Limousina, located at 491 South 9th Street in Midtown, conveniently near Penn Station.
The vibe at Limousina is a blend of energy and elegance, reminiscent of New York’s clubby Asian settings. Company president Michael Stillman expressed that while many praised regional Mexican spots have minimalist aesthetics, there’s something lacking in terms of the “pomp and fun” found in vibrant, creatively designed venues. It’s refreshing, really—how long has it been since a place matched the scale of El Vez or the original Dos Caminos?
Developed by GRT Architects, Limousina spans three stories and 5,000 square feet, embodying the charm of its brand: lively scenes, soaring ceilings, and bold color schemes. The seating arrangements are comfortable and spacious, helping to keep noise levels manageable.
At the bar, traditional favorites are given creative spins, like the Frozen Vampiro ($18), a mix of tequila, grapefruit, and pomegranate sangria. Still, many patrons, including New York Giants quarterback Jackson Dart, seem to flock there mostly for the food.
Chef Craig Koketsu honors the regional styles of Mexican cuisine without becoming overly zealous. His extensive menu encourages sharing and indulging—think machetes (elongated quesadillas, $22 to $26), ceviches, and various raw bar dishes ($22 to $165), alongside antojitos ($22 to $28) and larger specials. The standout is definitely the whole red snapper ($95), featuring a thick, crispy skin that’s surprisingly sweet, almost like General Tso took a little vacation in Baja.
Entrees, like fish and long-bone short rib quesabirria ($75), come with mini tortillas, allowing diners to build tacos at their own pace.
Quesabilria elevates the experience further with tableside melted queso poured over the meat.
The kitchen isn’t shy about infusing creativity, either. The menu even features Tex-Mex queso ($17) crafted from “straight” Rotel, which is a delightful upgrade from typical slop house dips.
A lively atmosphere thrives at Cuerno, located at 1271 Sixth Ave. (at 50th St., Midtown)—the first U.S. location from a Mexican steakhouse chain with 50 spots in Mexico and Spain.
Office-goers expecting a run-of-the-mill after-work beef experience are instead treated to an exciting menu of northern Mexican cuisine, all set in spacious rooms adorned with hand-carved woodwork and custom leather banquettes.
USDA Prime Beef is sourced from a South Dakota ranch and aged in-house for 21 days, enhancing its flavor. Most cuts are grilled in a high-temperature Josper charcoal oven, achieving rich caramelization that locks in juice.
I must say, while the steak is impressive, the truly unforgettable dish was the tamarind-crusted, slow-roasted short ribs—28 ounces of pure delight, priced at $78.
Oddly enough, a steakhouse might not be the first place you’d think to focus on octopus, but their pulpo a las brasas ($51 for a whole 8-ounce octopus) is simply delightful, easily serving two.
Chef Oriol Mendivil treats Yucatan’s cephalopods to a sea salt massage before steaming, then grilling them with chipotle salsa. The result is some of the tenderest, most flavorful octopus you can find.
Fun continues to be a theme at Rosa Mexicano.
This establishment has been a New York staple since the 1980s, but the new venue at the Empire Hotel (44 W. 63rd St., Upper West Side) marks a grander dimension of their brand.
With over 400 seats creatively arranged through six rooms and alcoves, you’d hardly notice how large it truly is.
Classic favorites like molcajete fajitas ($32-$42), hand-rolled enchiladas ($24-$41), and tableside guacamole ($19) are beautifully prepared in cast-iron skillets.
The signature Mexican fried rice ($16) is an intriguing mix of chorizo, bacon, corn, and black beans, topped with a fried egg and drizzled with chile de arbol mayonnaise, surpassing the standard Chinese versions.
Even if Rosa isn’t adorned as luxuriously as Limousina or Cuerno and doesn’t push the culinary envelope quite as far, it still offers an enjoyable experience with great food and warm hospitality. Ole!
