Changing Aldo’s Pizzeria

A notable mafia hangout in New York City is transforming itself into a halal Italian dining spot. This change comes courtesy of Sheikh Ahsan Ali, a former pizza maker who took over the restaurant from its financially struggling owner just last December.

Ali, 29, marked the grand opening of Aldo’s Pizzeria and Restaurant in Ozone Park, Queens, last week, but there’s a significant shift: gone are the pork and alcohol typically synonymous with the mob life that flourished there for so many years.

“We need change because the demographics are changing,” Ali shared. He noted that many immigrants in the area have different dietary restrictions, saying, “Some people can’t drink alcohol, not all of them are eating.” Ali has spent years working behind the counter at Aldo’s.

“We must change with the times,” he emphasized, while making it clear that the previous clientele associated with organized crime is not welcome anymore.

In its heyday, Aldo’s attracted infamous figures, including Gambino crime boss Ronald Trucchio, who was reportedly a regular and once received a hefty salary from the restaurant when it was in its original location. The atmosphere back then was said to resemble a scene from a low-budget mob movie.

Recent investigations have looked into possible illicit activities at the establishment and whether a former city councilman gave a job to one of Aldo’s co-owners under questionable circumstances.

Despite this past, Ali claims the restaurant has moved on from its mob ties, reflecting a broader decline in organized crime culture in the city. “I’ve heard a lot of stories in the past, but I’ve never come across any of their activities while I’ve been here,” he stated. “I think times have changed.”

While halal pizza options can be found throughout the city, Ali believes he is the first to run a fully halal Italian restaurant. He has dreamt of this since learning the trade from Aldo Calor, the original owner.

Promoted to general manager, Ali took the plunge to buy the restaurant when two brothers who had operated it for a decade were evicted for not paying rent. With the name Aldo’s carrying significant value and the restaurant situated in a prime location, Ali saw an irresistible opportunity.

All traditional pork dishes have been reimagined with beef or chicken, and alcohol has been replaced with non-alcoholic cooking wine. Ali’s uncle, who owns the building, expressed enthusiasm for this venture, aiming to contribute positively to both the community and Italian culinary traditions.

“First of all, after their own food, Muslims like Italian food,” Ali noted while reflecting on dietary restrictions that previously limited his options. He always wanted to create a space that welcomes everyone, not just Muslims, and he believes he has succeeded in ensuring that meat substitutes mimic the flavors of traditional pork.

“A lot of people say it tastes better than before!” he remarked, highlighting his friends’ positive feedback on the new offerings.