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48 hours in Cologne, Germany’s most laid-back city | Cologne holidays

IRead Kölsch for the fifth time and begin to understand the Cologne constitution.we are sitting Pefgen, one of the traditional breweries that produces the pale yellow beer typical of German cities. It’s served in a small straight glass (obviously the foam runs out quickly), and each time the glass is empty, the waiter shakes it and offers you another. Kranz, or a circular tray that seems to defy gravity. The exchange process continues until you signal that you’ve had enough by placing a beer mat on top of your glass.

For the many drinkers filling the room, I think my four-piece limit is just the beginning, but we’ve had the tradition of pork schnitzel, meatloaf, and, for the vegetarians, three fried eggs and fries. Consume alcohol with traditional dishes. It is declared to be delicious, if not healthy food.

Cologne, Germany’s fourth largest city, is less than four and a half hours from London by Eurostar and connecting ice train, a fact that comes as a surprise to many. Berlin is another four hours away, but a million miles from Cologne, which has a very laid-back reputation. This attitude is reflected in its unofficial constitution, Korche Grangesetzthere is a saying that goes like this: Eteswietes (It is what it is) And as befits the occasion, drink stene meat (Go ahead and have a drink).

Pefgen is one of the traditional breweries in Courgne. Photo: Hackenberg-Photo-Cologne/Alamy

our base is quest hotel, a neo-Gothic building in the Belgian district that once housed the city’s archives.Located in a quiet square, opposite his charming 4th century building St. Gereon Church – The sweeping stone staircase and Gothic arches and windows are the perfect backdrop for some seriously cool art and furniture, from the Eames chair to the bright green platone of the Pietro De Rossi banquette. We also have a fun single room in the attic, which is also popular with solo travelers.

From here, most attractions are within a 30-minute walk. There’s something to be said for a small city, even if you only have 48 hours to see it all.

We could have visited its main attractions and returned to London that evening. It’s not often that you see one of Europe’s most important cathedrals as soon as you leave Central Station. Once you arrive at Roma Termini Station, you’ll need to walk for about an hour to reach St. Peter’s Basilica, while Paris’ Notre Dame Cathedral is a 40-minute walk from Gare du Nord.

Stairs at the Ludwig Museum, home to Europe’s largest pop art collection. Photo: Jörn Suckerman/Alamy

Registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site cologne cathedralThe world’s tallest twin-spired church towers over the station, a permanent reminder of the city’s resilience under sustained Allied bombing during World War II. 1942 Royal Air Force’s first air raid with 1,000 bombers. Although badly damaged, the cathedral, which took more than 600 years to build and was completed in 1880, has survived the onslaught of debris in a city littered with debris. Ta.

Located a little far from the cathedral, Ludwig Museum, home to Europe’s largest collection of pop art and a great Picasso collection (and a pretty good cafe/restaurant). A short walk away is columba, the museum of the Archdiocese of Cologne, was created by Swiss architect Peter Zumthor, based on recently excavated Roman ruins and the medieval ruins of St. Columba’s Church. The building is impressive from the outside, but the inside is breathtakingly beautiful. Letting go of the heavy full-body leather curtains (Zunto’s signature), we continue along the wooden walkway above the ruins. Our Lady of the Rubble Chapel by Gottfried Böhmbuilt in 1949 to replace a bombed church.

This art collection has a lot of what you’d expect, including religious icons, a seal room, and a seal box, but also one of Andy Warhol’s Crucifix series and a bronze sculpture called “The Lair” cast by Louise Bourgeois. , there are also some great contemporary pieces.

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There are also professional second-hand buyers, so check out Cologne’s vintage stores. Along Cologne’s main shopping route, Ehrenstrasse, there is a mix of mainstream retailers.This makes for a great purchase please reconsiderbut no joy vintage revival At this time.

Ehrenstraße has a diverse mix of shops, from funky vintage shops to upscale shops. Photo: Yadid Levy/Alamy

Most of the second day Alpes Museum in Lorancec, a 50-minute train ride away in search of a Dada masterpiece, something Cologne itself lacks, despite being part of the early 20th century movement. I don’t think architect Richard Meier’s buildings are all that appealing, but Hans Arp and Sophie Tauber-Arp’s abstract collages and paintings can lift your spirits on a dull day.

Even though I thought I could do everything, I ended up going home with unfinished business. We drove through the cool, multicultural Ehrenfeld district at breakneck speed and couldn’t find the time. cafe & kuchen. However, the Constitution says: S Comte, We S Comte! (It goes as it goes!).

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