Pierpaolo Piccioli Takes the Helm at Balenciaga
Pierpaolo Piccioli has been appointed as the creative director of the renowned French couture house Balenciaga. This decision comes on the heels of the high-profile exit of former creative director Denma, who transitioned to Gucci in March.
During Denma’s tenure, Balenciaga became synonymous with a “memo core” approach to fashion, showcasing eccentric pieces that ranged from towel skirts to handbags resembling coffee cups. Piccioli’s new role suggests a shift in direction for the house founded by Cristobal Balenciaga back in 1919.
Prior to this, Piccioli served at Valentino from 2008 to 2024, where he earned recognition for his soft, feminine, and elegant design style.
Both Balenciaga and Gucci fall under the umbrella of Kering, one of the largest luxury conglomerates worldwide, which also owns brands like Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, and Alexander McQueen.
Gianfranco Giannangeli, the newly appointed CEO of Balenciaga, expressed enthusiasm for this new chapter, stating, “I am excited to start this new era with Pierpaolo at Balenciaga. His creative vision will thrive as he fully interprets the legacy of Cristobal Balenciaga while cultivating the brand’s bold creativity, rich heritage, and strong culture.”
Piccioli added, “This offers us the opportunity to reshape the Maison and begin a new chapter in its story.” His inaugural collection for Balenciaga is set to launch in October 2025.
This transition marks just one of many recent changes in the fashion industry. For instance, longtime Loewe designer JW Anderson took on a menswear role at Dior in April, while Louise Trotter assumed leadership at Bottega Veneta, also under Kering, following Matthew Blasey’s appointment at Chanel.
In the past year, several brands such as Dries Van Noten, Tom Ford, Givenchy, and Calvin Klein have seen new appointments as well.
These shifts in leadership come amid a downturn in the luxury market. Kering reported a 12% decline in revenue for 2024, while rival LVMH faced a smaller dip of 1% year-on-year.
Denma was known for making headlines, though not always for the right reasons. In 2023, Balenciaga had to issue an apology over a controversial campaign featuring teddy bears dressed in bondage-style leather harnesses.
Despite this, Denma’s move to Gucci, a significantly larger brand, appears to have been a step up in his career.
Kering’s Associate CEO, Francesca Bellettini, expressed her gratitude towards Denma for the “bold and unique vision” he contributed over the past decade. She added, “I trust that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco will guide Balenciaga towards excellence in this important new chapter of its remarkable history.”
