Exploring Europe on a Budget

A year ago, I stumbled upon a little travel hack. It turns out, you can journey across Europe via train for free if you’re traveling with kids under 12. Despite some skepticism from those offering seemingly great deals, many took advantage of Interrail’s generous offer, which has been popular despite the challenges of finding vintage accommodations.

Finding someone under 12 to join me was easier than expected. When Annabelle, my 10-year-old niece, asked if she could tag along for an Easter adventure, my siblings were quick to give their approval. Sure, there were some reservations, but she was fast asleep by 9 PM, so, I figured all was well.

So, where would we actually go? After a few FaceTime chats with her—during which she used about a hundred filters, including one that made her look like a cartoon version of Donald Trump—we settled on six cities: Paris, Zurich, Venice, Innsbruck, Berlin, and Amsterdam. Annabelle drew inspiration from Emily and Anne Frank’s diaries while in Paris and expressed a fascination with Toblerone chocolates. Honestly, if it were just up to me, the itinerary would have looked a lot different. I’ve just finished writing a book visiting some of Europe’s trendiest spots, but when I mentioned places like Essen or Minsk, Annabelle just raised an eyebrow. Not exactly impressed.

Our first stop? Paris. After checking into the Hoxton Hotel on Rue du Sentier, we immediately got caught in a massive line for snails. I won’t quote Annabelle directly, but she compared them to a… larger version of something you might find in your nose. Next, we had a picnic near the Eiffel Tower, though she was less than pleased when I tried to explain why going up wasn’t really worth it—“The British aren’t allowed, Uncle Ben?” she quipped—before heading to Sacré-Cœur, a place she adored.

Our train ride to Zurich involved a quick transfer in Strasbourg. We had to make seat reservations that cost 10 euros, which is a bit surprising considering the interrail pass holders should generally ride for free on certain trains. Reflecting on our four-hour trip through the eastern side of France into Switzerland, there were many moments spent staring out the window, playful Hangman games, and, oh, some serious vocabulary-building with words like “anger” and “green.”

In Zurich, we explored the city’s efforts to be more eco-friendly, even visiting a hydroelectric plant (which, let me tell you, didn’t exactly thrill Annabelle). We also sat near the lake, watching swans scavenge for pretzel remnants. Dinner was a treat at a plant-based restaurant run by the fantastic Spanish-Moroccan chef Zineb “Zizi” Hattab. The highlights? Definitely the Kentucky Fried Mushrooms and Vegan Ceviche.

Then came Venice. This time, I decided to let Annabelle lead. Rather than ramble on about Garibaldi and Italian unification, I let her navigate. Seems like she managed to lead us in and out of nearly every gift shop. Her love for “tat” was impressive.

“Annabelle suffers from a condition known as selective fatigue, which tends to strike on the way to museums,” I noted.

We stayed at the stylish Avani Rio Novo, conveniently located near the train station. That really helped Annabelle, who often complained about her “selective fatigue,” especially on our way to a museum. After a dinner of sardines and gelato (don’t even ask), she attempted to teach me ballet moves, and I wondered if she might try sneaking some drinks soon.

The next morning, before heading out again, I casually asked Annabelle for another way to say “go ahead,” and she suggested “wobble.”

With our bags, I threw in a monkey schnitzel from a restaurant before taking a scenic cable car ride up Hafelekarspitze, a mountain that looms at 2,334 meters. We looked out over the stunning vistas of the Austrian Alps, before Annabelle kicked off an epic snowman battle—her highlight of the trip.

Afterwards, we made our way to Berlin. We caught the sunset from the dizzying heights of the TV Tower in Alexanderplatz. My attempts to explain the significance of Brandenburg Gate and Checkpoint Charlie were met with a less-than-gripping response. She wrapped up my lecture by asking if I could do a trick with my tongue.

At KPM Hotel, in the old porcelain factory, Annabelle rated her stay a solid 10 out of 10, primarily because she got a bean bag in her room. The following day, we embarked on a guided bike tour around the Berlin Wall, soaking in historical tales, currywurst, and eventually Annabelle asking if life in East Germany sounded appealing—her answer? “Absolutely.”

“Annabelle really had a lot to say about Rembrandt. After sizing up his self-portrait, she commented, rather rudely, that he shouldn’t have cared for it at all,” I chuckled.

Eventually, we arrived in Amsterdam without a hitch, the six-hour trip straightforward and connection-free. From the station, we enjoyed a leisurely stroll to the NH Collection near the Amsterdam Flower Market. However, the staff didn’t quite meet Annabelle’s lofty expectations.

The next day, we explored the canals, tasting Dutch pancakes—Poffertjes—before Anabelle’s take on Rembrandt at the Rijksmuseum. I’ll just say this: she wasn’t shy about being critical of the self-portrait, suggesting rather bluntly that it lacked charm.

Her thoughts on visiting the Anne Frank House were somewhat understated. After learning about Anne’s struggles, Annabelle wrote a brief note in the visitor’s book that captured her feelings, but I can’t quite remember what it said.

As we traveled back from Brussels to London, she was a little fidgety, hinting that something was on her mind.

“Next year, I’ll be 11,” she said, a hint of seriousness in her voice.

“You certainly will,” I replied.

“But I’m still under 12,” she added, her voice unwavering.

“That’s correct,” I confirmed.

“So, I technically won’t cost you anything,” she declared.

“Well, that’s not quite true, but point taken,” I laughed.

“Maybe we could plan another trip like this?” she suggested.

“Perhaps…” I mused.

“This time we should visit Minsk and Essen, you know, the places I suggested!” she insisted.

“I’ll have a word with your dad,” was all I could think to say.

She shrugged it off and went back to watching YouTube videos about Oreos, whispering to herself, “If you need me.”

Interrail passes tend to kick off around £180 for a 4-day trip valid for a month, and notably, kids under 12 get to travel free. Accommodations varied from the Hoxton Paris (starting at £250, with free beds for younger guests) to Avani Rio Novo in Venice (rooms from £127) and NH Collection Amsterdam (double rooms from £200). Overall support was provided by tourism offices in Innsbruck, Berlin, and Amsterdam.

Ben Aitken’s new book is titled Sh*Tty Breaks: Unsung Cities Celebration, and it’s available now.