New York Cosmetology Schools Required to Teach Kinky Hair Management

Cosmetology and hairstyling schools in New York will need to start instructing students on managing kinks and frizz if they wish to license their graduates.

The New York State Department has rolled out new regulations mandating updated coursework aimed at addressing racial disparities, effective by September.

State Representative Michael Solages, a co-author of the bill, shared that, “I have curly hair. Not everyone has straight hair. The new training in cosmetology school will definitely help those who don’t have straight hair.” She recalled an earlier time in her political career when she was advised to “straighten her hair” to maintain a professional appearance.

“This is a form of discrimination,” Solages stated, in reference to salons that fail to provide services for textured hair.

She also mentioned experiences where both she and her daughter had disappointing results at hair salons.

“The person behind the chair should understand your hair,” the congresswoman emphasized.

Earlier this year, Solages worked alongside state Senator Jamal Bailey to create a law requiring all hairstyling and cosmetology schools to incorporate education on “textured” hair into their overall curriculum.

This new state regulation was announced just recently, coinciding with a federal discrimination lawsuit filed against Ulta Beauty Salon by a Black woman and her daughter after a stylist reportedly refused to cut their hair.

The New York Human Rights Law protects against discrimination based on various race-related characteristics, including hair type.

In 2024, the state received 622 applications for cosmetology licenses and 89 for natural hair styling licenses.

Interestingly, Solages noted that current haircutters are not impacted by this new requirement, since they can renew their licenses without additional coursework; this instruction is intended only for new students.

Importantly, the revision does not increase the total hours needed for licensing. Instead, the new curriculum will fit into the existing study hours.

Under the updated regulations, the required 300 to 1,000 hours of instruction will now include:

• 10 hours of hair analysis, focusing on various hair types such as curly, coiled, kinky, and straight.
• A 20-hour treatment course covering hair products suitable for natural hair care and styling, along with a hydrating steam treatment.
• Enhanced training on braiding techniques, including the use of crochet needles and bead threaders, as well as managing extensions.
• 18 hours dedicated to textured hair styling, including curl treatments, braid styling, and preparations for natural hair blow-drying and ironing.

The New York State Association of Cosmetology Schools expressed confidence that schools will be able to implement these new requirements smoothly and without significant challenges within the outlined timeframe.

Efforts to revise hair salon regulations have been in motion for almost ten years, following Congress’s establishment of the Appearance Enhancement Advisory Board in 2017, which aims to address cultural and ethnic perceptions surrounding various hair types.