Recent material tests have found that cotton sourced from East Turkestan, home to the Uyghur population and referred to by China as “Xinjiang,” is present in the clothing of the popular “Love Bath” series dolls.
According to the Victims of Communism Memorial Foundation (VOC), independent laboratories tested 16 out of 20 PopMart Labbu dolls sold in the United States and discovered that the cotton in them traces back to Xinjiang, a region notorious for its integration of forced labor into cotton production. The foundation highlighted PopMart’s public support for the Chinese Communist Party’s actions in East Turkestan and criticized their stance after Adidas decided to stop using cotton from the region.
VOC is urging the U.S. to impose significant restrictions on imports of PopMart products until they can verify that these items are not linked to slavery. In 2022, the Uyghur Forced Labor Prevention Act (UFLPA) was enacted to block imports from East Turkestan unless businesses can confirm that their products aren’t tainted by forced labor. However, since the law applies only to goods brought directly from East Turkestan and PopMart manufactures across China, many Lovebuses evade UFLPA scrutiny.
For numerous international companies, tracing the origin of cotton is quite typical, enabling them to ensure their materials meet international human rights obligations. Cotton, being a natural fiber, possesses a unique DNA signature that forensic labs can analyze to determine its origin.
Grant Cochran, CEO of the forensic tracking firm Oritain, mentioned in 2022 that the technology exists to pinpoint the source of cotton with precision. Various brands are working with them to make this information available.
On the same day, following similar tests initiated by the Campaign for Uyghurs, the company claimed it had requested checks to confirm if the 20 Labbu dolls it purchased had cotton from East Turkestan. Most of the dolls are made from synthetic materials, but both tests indicated the presence of “Xinjiang cotton” primarily in their clothing.
Of the 20 dolls tested, 16 were found to contain cotton sourced from Xinjiang in their T-shirt designs. While the dolls themselves consist mostly of polyester, some external parts, especially clothing, include cotton.
Adrian Zenz, a senior fellow at VOC and an expert on the situation of the Uyghurs, noted that these findings reveal the extent to which the Chinese government’s coercive practices infiltrate the global consumer supply chain. He pointed out that it’s nearly impossible to maintain an entirely clean cotton supply chain within China due to the scale of forced labor, indicating that in 2025 alone, over three million individuals were moved through labor migration, and those resisting were often detained or imprisoned.
According to PopMart, the dolls are designed as “small monsters” with exaggerated features aiming to be kind-hearted yet often causing unintentional trouble. They have gained popularity, especially in the U.S., where many celebrities have been seen with the dolls.
PopMart’s unique sales strategy involves “blind boxes,” where buyers are uncertain of which specific doll they’re getting until they open the box. This approach tends to encourage more purchases as collectors chase after “rare” editions. Some consumers reportedly spend huge amounts trying to complete their collections.
Typically, standard Labubu models range from $20 to $40, but PopMart has started offering premium versions—like a special FIFA World Cup Labubu priced at $149 and a “Mega Love Bu 400%” listed for $314.90. The brand’s widespread appeal has even led Sony Pictures to announce plans for a Love Bus movie aimed at boosting sales and promoting other Pop Mart characters.
PopMart’s founder, Wang Ning, has been featured in Chinese state media advocating for international firms to shift production to China, despite the ongoing issues of forced labor. He claimed that China’s manufacturing prowess coupled with its extensive market provides an optimal environment for cultivating international intellectual property.
Since around 2017, the Chinese government has been accused of committing genocide against the Uyghurs, initially establishing camps for up to three million people. Survivors allege they were subjected to forced labor along with various forms of torture. Reports indicate that by 2020, forced labor practices became more widespread across China. An Australian report pointed out that Uyghur individuals are frequently transported to factories, complicating the sourcing of products to ensure they are not linked to human trafficking. VOC estimates that around three million Uyghurs remain enslaved in East Turkestan as of this week.
“By 2025, authorities had moved over three million people through labor migration programs; those who declined to work faced severe consequences,” VOC stated. They emphasized that Xinjiang contributes more than 90% of China’s cotton and roughly 20% of global cotton supply, calling into question the sustainability of a clean cotton supply chain in the country.
PopMart indicated that they are reviewing the findings and will hold suppliers to the highest standards.
