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We discovered how minoxidil promotes hair growth

We discovered how minoxidil promotes hair growth

Dealing with hair loss—whether it’s seasonal shedding, postpartum changes, or androgenetic alopecia—can be pretty disheartening. It’s no wonder the market is flooded with products that promise a lot but often underdeliver. However, minoxidil stands out as one of the few options for promoting hair growth that actually has scientific backing, which helps explain its enduring presence in the thinning hair category.

When considering hair growth solutions, minoxidil is quite unique. “It’s the gold standard for over-the-counter hair-loss treatments because of its robust evidence supporting its effectiveness,” explains Sejal Shah, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. “Research consistently showcases its ability to slow hair loss and promote new growth in both men and women facing hereditary pattern hair loss. This makes it one of the best-supported non-prescription solutions out there.”

Moreover, minoxidil is FDA-approved for specific types of pattern hair loss, distinguishing it from shampoos, serums, and other supplements that might look promising but lack the same level of regulatory scrutiny. Sandra Oska, MD, a dermatologist in Los Angeles, notes that it’s also fairly accessible and budget-friendly.

The significance of minoxidil is such that it serves as a benchmark against which newer hair-loss treatments, like exosomes and peptides, are measured, according to Carmen Castilla, MD, another board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Here’s an overview of what makes this ingredient so noteworthy.

The benefits of minoxidil for hair growth

While it’s true minoxidil aids hair growth, it’s a bit more nuanced than that. One key attraction is its ability to address various aspects of hair loss, not just one single angle, as Dr. Castilla points out.

For starters, it may extend the growth phase of hair. The exact way it works isn’t completely clear, but “it seems to prolong the anagen phase of the hair cycle, helping follicles shift from the resting telogen phase to active growth,” says Dr. Shah. This essentially means your hair can focus on growing rather than shedding.

It can also enhance the size of hair follicles. Follicle miniaturization occurs in cases of androgenetic alopecia, where hormonal changes lead to smaller, thinner hairs. Minoxidil appears to counter this, making follicles larger again. Additionally, it may improve blood flow around the hair follicles due to vasodilation, which ultimately results in more follicles actively producing hair and some thinning hairs regaining thickness.

That’s why minoxidil is particularly effective for androgenetic alopecia—usually noticeable as gradual thinning at the crown or along the hairline. However, it’s not just limited to that. “Sometimes, I suggest it to patients for support after a shedding event, as long as we’re addressing the underlying cause,” Dr. Oska adds. For instance, if stress is causing hair loss after a significant life event, minoxidil could help with regrowth, assuming the stressors have been resolved.

The downsides of minoxidil for hair growth

Minoxidil isn’t without downsides. Some mild side effects include scalp irritation, itchiness, dryness, flaking, redness, and even a burning sensation, according to Dr. Shah. This can happen because certain formulations contain propylene glycol, which can be irritating.

Another downside? When you first start using minoxidil, you might experience increased shedding. “This can occur as older hairs fall out to make way for new growth,” explains Dr. Shah. “While it might be alarming, it’s typically a temporary phase.”

Lastly, although uncommon, it’s possible to grow hair in unintended areas. This mostly happens if you unintentionally touch your face or body after applying the product.

How to use minoxidil for hair growth

To get the best results, it’s ideal to start using minoxidil as soon as you notice any hair loss or shedding. “Treatments tend to work best for preserving existing hair rather than growing new hair,” warns Dr. Castilla. “As you advance in the hair-loss process, follicles become less responsive.” Also, most people generally start noticing changes only after four to six months, so the sooner you begin, the better.

Be prepared to incorporate it into your daily routine. “Sticking to a consistent regimen is key. Those who get the most benefit are the ones who use it daily,” says Dr. Oska. Just keep in mind: You’ll see results only as long as you continue using it. If you’re dealing with hereditary hair loss, which is typically permanent, using minoxidil regularly will be necessary to maintain your hair.

The best minoxidil for hair growth

It’s hard to discuss minoxidil without referencing Rogaine. “The foam formulation is easy to apply, dries quickly, and is often gentler on sensitive scalps because it usually doesn’t contain propylene glycol,” Dr. Shah shares. Foam products generally avoid this ingredient, which is a plus. Plus, as Dr. Oska mentions, “there’s less risk of the product dripping down your neck or forehead.” Virtue also offers a formulation free of propylene glycol, enhancing its gentleness while promoting hair health.

Minoxidil is available over-the-counter in 2% and 5% concentrations. Most experts recommend jumping straight to the 5% version since it tends to be more effective, although 2% might be a better fit for those with particularly sensitive skin. Keranique offers a precision applicator to target your scalp directly, while Amazon’s generic version uses a dropper. It’s important to note that the 2% formulas need to be applied twice a day, compared to once daily for the 5% concentration.

There are also compounded versions of minoxidil with strengths exceeding 5%. While there isn’t much evidence proving they work better than 5% alone, “in some situations, a dermatologist may prescribe low-dose oral minoxidil, other medications targeted at specific causes of hair loss, or combination therapies rather than simply raising the topical concentration,” Dr. Shah notes.

For example, Musely provides a solution that can compound minoxidil up to 8% with dutasteride (effective for male pattern baldness), spironolactone (which helps to prevent follicle miniaturization in women), and ketoconazole (known for reducing inflammation on the scalp). Additionally, the Curology Hair FormulaRx aims to combine minoxidil with finasteride (which affects hormones tied to hair loss), spironolactone, and caffeine (which stimulates hair follicles).

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