Delight for turkey critics: 6 traditional alternatives for Thanksgiving

This Thanksgiving, maybe we should consider the poor turkey. I mean, are there any animals we actually don’t eat?

Every year, it seems like there’s a trend to bash the classic Thanksgiving meal. Around 35% of Americans reportedly say that turkey is their least favorite part of the holiday feast, according to a recent survey.

This vintage recipe from Better Homes and Gardens might feel like a bit of a cheat since it uses turkey, but not in any way you’d recognize.

Online discussions often fuel negativity. Every year brings the same “contrarian” stance: “Stop pretending you like turkey. Not on Thanksgiving or any other day.”

Even famous chefs jump into the fray. David Chang, a well-known restaurateur, has openly commented that “Turkey is highly overrated.” He points out that the only reason to cook a turkey is to make gravy, and then you could just skip the bird altogether.

I might be inclined to agree with the turkey haters. I mean, turkey can definitely be dry and lacking in flavor—though there are ways to avoid that. Plus, the whole notion of eating turkey and a lot of Thanksgiving foods has a history rooted in advertising back in the early 20th century. A college freshman joked about it, “It’s all a scam by Big Cranberry!”

While many are happy to stick with the traditional turkey, there are quite a few alternatives that have graced the Thanksgiving table over the years. Below are some recipes for those willing to switch it up.

1. Roasted Eel (1621)

This was likely one of the main meats served at the first Thanksgiving in Plymouth, being a well-known freshwater food source. A 1622 pamphlet from Plymouth Colony highlights this.

Tisquantum went fishing for eels at noon and returned at night with as many eels as he could lift with one hand. It was pleasing to our people; they were thick and sweet.

Here’s how they prepared it.

Ingredients

• 2 pounds cleaned freshwater eel
• Splash of salt and vinegar
• Sage or bay, butter

Instructions

1. Soak the eel in salt water and vinegar for about 30 minutes.
2. Dry and rub with salt and herbs.
3. Split and wrap the eel around a stick.
4. Bake over direct heat for 20-25 minutes.
5. Season with butter.

2. Roasted Swan (17th-18th Century)

Swan was a favorite of European royals, and they were abundant in the New World, likely making an appearance at the first Thanksgiving.

Here’s a recipe from a 1670 cookbook by Hannah Woolley:

To bake a swan: After cooking, take out the bones, parboil them, season well, add lard, put them in a deep coffin of rye paste with plenty of butter, and bake them well.

3. Passenger Pigeon Pie (1700s)

Passenger pigeons have been extinct for over a century, but they were once abundant. Eating them isn’t really feasible anymore, but Cornish game or squab could serve as stand-ins.

Mock Passenger Pigeon Pie:

Ingredients

• 2 Cornish game hens
• 1 onion (quartered)
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 2 tablespoons flour
• 1-1 1/2 cups chicken or turkey stock
• Salt, pepper to taste
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• Double pie dough

Instructions

1. Boil game hens with onions until tender.
2. Remove hens and shred the meat from the bones.
3. Prepare gravy with butter and flour.
4. Line pie plate, add meat, pour gravy over it, cover and bake.

4. Sautéed Calf Brain with Mushrooms, Sour Cream, and Dill

In 1904, George Vanderbilt hosted a fancy Thanksgiving at the Biltmore, featuring not just turkey but also calf’s brain.

Ingredients

• 1 pound brains (veal, pork, lamb)
• Water for soaking
• Salt
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 1 cup sliced mushrooms
• 2-3 tablespoons sour cream
• 1-2 tablespoons fresh dill
• Toast (for serving)

Instructions

1. Soak the brain overnight, then boil it.
2. Peel and cut into pieces.
3. Sauté mushrooms in butter, then add the brain pieces.
4. Mix in sour cream and dill to finish.
5. Serve over toast.

5. Celery au Naturel (Late 1800s-Early 1900s)

Once seen as a status symbol, celery was a coveted addition to the Thanksgiving table.

Ingredients

• 1 bunch celery
• Cold water
• Ice cubes (optional)
• Salt (for serving)

Instructions

1. Cut and soak celery in cold water.
2. Display it upright at the table with salt for guests.

6. Turkey Lime Molded Salad (1969)

This salad, featuring turkey, strays a bit from traditional presentation.

Ingredients

• 2 packages lime-flavored gelatin
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups boiling water
• 1/2 cup cold water
• 1 bottle ginger ale
• 2 cups diced cooked turkey
• 1 cup sour cream
• 1/4 teaspoon grated ginger
• 1 can pears (diced)

Instructions

1. Dissolve gelatin in boiling water.
2. Add ginger ale and refrigerate.
3. Layer with turkey and then sour cream mixture.
4. Chill until solid and serve.