Long Island Oyster Farmers Face Tough Times
Long Island oyster farmers are experiencing a challenging season, grappling with significant crop losses from a brutal winter while also dealing with negative publicity linked to warnings about harmful waterborne bacteria mistakenly associated with their products.
“We’ve got couples who dine out several times a week, and they always kick things off with a dozen oysters,” shared Phil Mastrangelo, co-owner of Oyster Ponds Shellfish Co. in Orient.
Concerns about the Vibrio vulnificus bacterium, which can be dangerous if it enters a wound, were highlighted in an April report. This bacterium was found in various water bodies throughout Suffolk County and has been linked to three fatalities in 2023.
While the bacteria can occasionally infect oysters, experts noted that the risk of serious illness from consuming them is extremely low. Furthermore, the bacteria were located far from the regulated areas where oysters meant for human consumption are farmed.
Despite this, the reputation of local shellfish has suffered. Even with confirmation from Suffolk County that there are no active human cases of infection, the damage to public perception is done.
Mastrangelo expressed concern that 2024 could see a repeat of the 34% drop in local oyster sales reported over the past six months. “I haven’t seen a bounce back since two years ago,” he remarked.
The harsh winter resulted in around $2.3 million in equipment damage for Long Island producers, wiping out roughly 33% of crops on neighboring farms. “The timing couldn’t be worse for those trying to recover,” Mastrangelo added.
To cope, they’ve started distributing products to states like Massachusetts and Philadelphia. Dr. Christopher Gobler from Stony Brook University, who published the report on Vibrio, affirmed that Long Island oysters are cultivated in some of the cleanest waters in New York.
“Oyster farmers put in a tremendous amount of effort and yield an excellent product,” Gobler remarked.
Sixto Portilla from Maris Stella Oysters emphasized that the local water is tested weekly. Recent discussions have dismissed earlier concerns, as Suffolk County Executive Ed Romaine reinforced the importance of preserving and promoting the island’s critical economic resources.
“Long Island oysters are the best in the country, and they’ll keep improving,” Romaine stated.
Gobler’s report noted that Vibrio bacteria have emerged in areas like Sagaponack Pond and Mecox Bay, primarily due to factors like nitrogen runoff, algae blooms, and climate change.
He mentioned that people in the region are “50 times more likely to drown” than contract a bacterial infection, stressing that common sense is key. However, Gobler did advise individuals with open wounds or compromised immune systems to steer clear of potentially contaminated water.
“The odds of dying from this bacterium are about 1 in 10 million,” he noted. “If you’ve ever swum underwater, you’ve likely encountered this bacteria because of how common it is.”
